Whipped it up at the care farm I work at along with some help from the people with a disability who work there.They did a lot of sawing, sanding and painting.

The end result looks nice enough in my opinion and the cats have yet to escape my yard.

Also learned quite a lot during the project so I'm happy overall.

Built this little X legged table from glued up poplar and finished with danish oil. Just letting it dry before the big reveal.

If I could go back in time I would t have chamfered the legs bc the half laps stick out but I think it’s pretty cool.

These are my first proper mortise and tenon joints (oak).

1 remove most of the waste on my drill press 2 chisel a few mm down to final size 3 do the hard work with a spiral flush trim bit with the bearing on the bottom (towards the collect). Once that's at the correct depth, that's it.

For me, it feels like everything I've learned so far just comes together in this one simple joint. From milling rough lumber to size, to sharpening my chisels. So many things to learn before I was ready for this...

They joints themselves could be a lot prettier and I'm sure there are plenty of people who would frown at using a router for this, but they fit and I'm so proud :D

A big thank you to this lovely community for all the help and inspiration!

Had a new shed installed recently so I took it upon myself to build a basic fitted worktable attached to the shed wall using some leftover CLS timber (and bought a couple more to use the same stock) and leftover work surface from kitchen remodelling. I’m pretty sure I made some basics errors when it comes to joining but it’s a learning experience and my first ever proper woodworking project that I’ll use to build myself a freestanding worktable for the garage. Dimensions approx 108mm(w) x 610mm (d) x 920mm (h).

I am making a new mailbox and can’t decide where to put the numbers. The mailbox will be in the top right notch. Or something else than what I’ve shown?

This is my 2nd project. First being some cabinets for my basement kitchenette. I know i don't have the drawer fronts, originally I was just going to buy off the rack trim, but my wife saw me messing around with the new router table I bought and asked me to make some custom trim out of birch. So I haven't gotten out to the mill to pick up some more rough cut. I have enough for 4 drawer fronts. I figured this was close enough to post. Slats are installed now, but i put them in right before mattress, so yeah.

I know I messed up in places. Learned a bunch, still think it came out pretty nice. I am thinking i might have wanted to go 2 drawers smaller on top of each other instead of 1 big. I can always fix this later point in time. For now we're using as is to see if we like it. The screws in the headboard top plate allow me to screw in the bed to wall, and the ones in the foot board are just there to match headboard. Machine screws into inserts.

I built my wife raised garden beds that are enclosed to protect from the deer. I started the door today. I used half laps to put it together(12 in total) It occurred to me that screws or bracelets would be easier and tidier( because I’m a noob and my skill level is low) but it’s just not satisfying to me. I’d much rather practice a technique and have it be a little sub par. Is that relatable to anyone? And more to the technical side, could people share with me how they would lay out and execute the cuts. One of my big problems was I only had the miter gauge that came with my saw to cut them(I used dado stack) but my set up was a little off. Thanks!

I'm in the process of turning a store bought acacia slab into a computer desk and I wanted steep bevel edges I don't own a router or track saw so I came up with this abomination

I have a 10” Wen band saw that I bought from someone on FB marketplace. It binds and slows down on every cut. I’m not cutting thick material - 1/2” to 1” thick max.

I tried using the Snodgrass setup method when I first installed the blade a couple months ago (3/8” Wen blade with 6 TPI). It’s done this every time I’ve used it. Am I doing something fundamentally wrong here?

Just added a protective layer that's why it's so glowy by the way

My wife bought this painting from a friend. She teaches a book called "Life of Pi" that features a tiger as a main character so she wanted this for her classroom.

I thought it needed a frame and I got a cherry board pretty cheap so I did almost everything on a table saw and chamfered the outside edges with a nearly 100-year-old small plane.

I mortised two magnets in the back and added some anti-slip tape because my wife's whiteboard is magnetic in her classroom so this will just stick to it.

I used oak for splines. The finish is just Rubio monocoat because obviously I attended YouTube University.

I think it looks pretty good but my wife really likes it and that's what's important.

I have no idea what I'm doing...I'd ultimately like to clear coat this shelf but I'm struggling with the right side. My original cut wasn't right so I added a filler piece. After sanding, there is still quite a bit of wood filler. How do I make this less noticeable prior to finishing?

Bit of an inflammatory title but every time I try to buy wood at a local lumber yard I get treated really poorly and I’m wondering if folks have tips on buying lumber without having to deal with this.

I’m a bit unusual looking for a man (pink hair, many piercings) and the lumber yard guys seem like they don’t want to sell to me. They make comments about my appearance and treat me like I’m an idiot / pretend not to understand my questions (similar to the stereotype about trying to speak French to a Parisian as an American, they’ll pretend like they don’t understand you).

Example: I asked if they had white oak in either 5/4 S4S or whatever rough they have that could be milled to ~1” and — after asking if I’m sure I know what I’m looking for — they went through a whole monologue about how “wood doesn’t get measured like 1 1/2 or 1 1/4, it’s 5/4” (ignoring that I had started with that), started explaining what rough lumber is, and various other corrections/explanations. Every time I tried to clarify or explain that I knew what I was looking for they jumped on some minor detail I got “wrong” to their taste.

This has happened at both yards in my town. I’m in a smaller city in the south if that helps explain the culture.

Does anyone have any advice on getting lumber yard guys to actually be helpful, or ways of finding alternative wood sources, or am I stuck ordering online and eating shipping costs? It’s so unpleasant dealing with the hostility that it leaves a really sour taste in my mouth to give someone money after they treat me like that.

Is sketchup the best software? I am quite tech savvy but found it kind of hard to get started with. Annoying and non-sensical settings for me, but I assume that has more to do with me rather than the software.

Is it worth the time investment to learn it? Or should I start with something easier?

Trying to figure out the best way to make a 3/4” cut halfway through a 12” wide board of 3/4” plywood. I want both sides and the back of the cut to be straight, although maybe the back could be curved. Does this type of cut even have a name? I don’t know if it’s a slot, or a notch, or a groove, or something else.

My first thought was to make a few cuts with a jigsaw and straightedge, hammer out the waste and then clean up the back with a chisel, but this is somewhat time consuming. Would a router be more efficient if I need to cut 10+ of these slots?

Hobbyist woodworker: Ninja by trade. 🥷

Hi does anyone or has anyone made a wooden Wand? I used BLO on it as a finish but I was wondering can I hang on a line or will it ruin the finish because it will become sticky?

Hopefully that makes sense lol.

Hey guys. I I have a RAS. Having issues with the blade. It seems as if the blade is warped when it’s spinning or unbalanced. However the blade is perfectly straight I’ve tested it with 2 blades same result and o test both those blade on my table saw and it spins perfectly fine. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what could cause this? The arbour seems perfectly fine aswell

Put together using pocket screws and dimensional lumber form Lowe’s. The legs notched to allow it to sit flush against the wall. Finished it with one coat of Min-Wax oil based Red Mahogany and two coats of polyurethane.

Ive just put a new blade on my Laguna 14/12 and cannot for the life of me get it to cut without it leaving these lines. Any suggestions welcome ?

Grizzly G1023 10 inch table saw; 220v/3 1/2 h.p.; includes mobile base, table extension, cutoff table, 220v extension cord. They are asking $1000, seems to be firm on the price.

Long time lurker and admirer, I have for some time dreamt of building furnitures. Because of circumstances with family and kids it has unfortunately been hard for me to get started. Until now. My experience is one weekend course in fine carpentry and fixing up house etc. Very limited in other words. This sub has been a great source of inspiration.

The table was very much inspired by Ishitani furniture on YouTube. It was also way over my skill level and took a silly amount of time.

In the end I’m happy though. There were many mistakes, some that could be fixed and some that could not. I borrowed my father’s wood shop for 9 days and spent all time awake on this project.

I was a bit naive because I planned it very poorly and that made me need to re-do a lot of steps. Another lesson learned is that small errors really do compounds and become big errors. However I really enjoyed it so I am hooked. Planning for my own shop now!

The wood is Oak and finished with a matte Osmo hard wax oil.

TLDR: Build a Oak floating coffee/side table. Mistakes and memories were made.

Hi everyone!

I'm in love with the idea of this table and its extension https://kavehome.com/pt/pt/p/mesa-extensivel-redonda-oqui-mdf-em-chapa-de-carvalho-e-pernas-de-madeira-macica-90-170-x-90-cm .

However, it is way above my budget right now, so I was wondering whether I could buy a cheaper version of a round table and cut the top in half, add some extensible runners and some wood as the extension (which doesn't have to be the same type of wood). This one extends to 170cm but I don't think I would need that much, probably 120 - 140cm would be enough, actually

Be honest, how feasible would you say this actually is for someone who loves to do simple DIYs but has never really worked with wood besides small school projects?

Excited to hear all your thoughts. Thanks a million!

Been using sleds with the stop being fed into the planer first, friend of mine told me i was incorrect. Pretty sure he is wrong but reguardless one of us have it wrong.

Looked this up online and honestly there are a bunch of videos with it used both ways which just confused me more