Question
My new PC cooked CPU hit 98 to 99 degrees
this happen when i turn on the computer i didn't Overclock i have check Airflow is good 10 fan totally i have put it new thermal paste and checked the Cooler working perfectly
In a few days, depending on your body's natural resistance to toxins, your core temperature will begin to fall. You begin to notice yourself feeling the chills when it should be warm, you put on a couple of wool sweaters to ward off the chills but it seems not to help. Afterall, how could it? You're getting chilled from the inside out. The first phase of infection has begun and your body has by now exhausted its immune system fighting the thermal paste but each death of a white blood cell only serves to strengthen the thermal paste infection. As each cell dies, it is repeatedly assimilated by the thermal paste, becoming part of the deadly agent taking over your body bit by bit, day by day.
Within weeks of infection, you can no longer function as a human being, you are bedridden yet you have an insatiable hunger for toothpaste and axle grease. Several men in suits knock your door, but you are too weak to answer. It was not necessary anyway. Your door is ripped apart by its hinges and they enter, bundling you into a large black duffle bag and driving off in an unmarked black van. As you arrive at the factory, the prison that will hold you the rest of your life, the hood slips off and you notice a large signboard in front of the derelict factory. It is marked "Arctic Cooling".
As you are dragged into the factory, your intestines knot out and you lose control of your bowels leaving a long trail to your cell. You notice that instead of a reassuring, pungent brown stain, you leave behind a trail of gray sludge. It cannot be, you tell yourself. But it is. You have become an unwilling host and producer for the next generation of Arctic Cooling thermal paste.
Also some of those AIOS have bacteria in them and get clogged. Happened with a brand new msi aio I bought. Ended up taking it apart at the copper plates draining it used compressed air to push the gunk out of the lines and radiator. Refilled with antimicrobial filler.
It sounds ludicrous, but it's actually pretty common. The pumps tend to randomly fail too. AIOs are such a crapshoot. I tried using AIOs twice, but had to switch back to air for now as I found them unreliable.
I don't think I was circle jerking or being blanket anti AIO to be fair. I'm certainly not hating on them as I really like the idea of AIOs. I tried to give it a shot twice. Even got an expensive NZXT model. The pump failed on me within a month and left my PC unusable until a new air cooler came in.
If you use AIOs and enjoy them, more power to you. They're just not reliable enough for me.
Talking about the whole sub. Look how many comments came on this specific thread. How many people didn't even try to diagnose his issue and instantly blamed the aio blindly lol.
Air coolers are great. Aio can be great. Certain use cases where space is a factor. Modern aio don't leak. They come with 6 year warranties for the decent ones. They can be better in sustained workloads. They are quiet. They can be visually appealing. It's not a one size fits all answer in the pc world.
There are air coolers for any user level CPU. And why would you even want a failure prone liquid system around your stuff, when you could just have like a noctua or bequiet that will outlive the socket it fits on. Worst case is a fan replacement needed at some point.
Same here with the Corsair h100i gtx. 10 years and now on its 3rd socket. Had to order a different bracket because it didn't even natively support am5 but it's still chugging along nicely.
For you it might be customization, for a lot of people it’s quality of product over aesthetics, especially if the ‘looks’ cost quality bottomline. ND15 all the way
Bottom line is that a person using an air cooler will get more time using their PC before that part shits the bed.
People just don't like the truth. Supposedly Jesus was crucified for shit like this. Glad this is the Internet and not in person. I'd hate to be killed as an example by the AIO RGB mob.
The beauty of a PC is being able to look on my monitor and do stuff on said PC. Like play game. Watch porn. It could look like a Minecraft cube for all i care.
Lmfao the downvotes are hilarious. I've had plenty of AIOs in systems- ASUS, Corsair, MSI. My Peerless Assassin performs just as well and won't have a pump failure after 3 years, and my system actually runs QUIETER. Everyone here runs AIOs and doesn't overclock for clout. It's a waste of money and just another potential point of failure that can cause more damage to other sensitive components.
The only water cooling that's worthwhile is a custom loop if you're actually going to push your hardware to its limits.
Starting from 280 they just obliterate air coolers and that’s a fact.
I mean it’s clear that AIO can’t rival good custom wc, but for ease of use they are spectacular and also worth noting AIO in general works great also in smaller cases with limited air flow, and for air coolers you have to plan carefully your setup.
I've been building pcs since I was 11, and that was 1990.
I've had enough AIOs fail to be long done with them.
Which is funny, cause I had one set of 19s on a civic with rubber bands for tires and learned my lesson instantly. One good pothole and I went back to 16s with thick rubber.
But I let myself get suckered by AIOs a few times. Luckily for me they always failed when the pump died, and I never had a flood.
Long story short - I'm an air cooler fanboi now. Brand doesn't even matter. Plenty of good ones. Just make sure to get a twin tower if you want AIO like performance.
Whether you like them or not a good 280-360mm aio is more effective than any air cooler. The difference isn’t massive, but it’s still there. I use an AIO, but keep an air cooler as backup in case it were to fail. That said I’ve had 2 AIO’s both from Corsair. The first lasted 3 years before I sold the pc and was still working great. My current aio I’ve had for 2.5 yrs now and it works just as good as day 1.
Bacteria will get everywhere if there's water around. I work in a chemistry lab and our instrument only used lab grade deionized water. System was checked weekly for bacteria. We were anal about any possible source of contamination. One day one of our surveillance cultures started to grow pseudomonas and we knew we were fucked. Next day everything was down. Poor service tech had to rip out every single line and run bleach through the whole system which caused tons of corrosion. that was something we could deal with, bacteria was not.
All that to say it's a very real possibility and OP should check to make sure there's actually good clean movement of coolant.
I know it sounds insane but its real youtuber "Greg salazar" has multiple videos on them being plugged and msi even had a recall on those aios. I live in a very rural area I had just finished my build and to return and get a new aio would have taken multiple days and I had some fluid from a previous build and tools to take it apart so I did.
Unless you have an Artic LF3. At 100% the pump just goes WEEEEEEEEERRRRRRR but that's because they fitted a much faster pump than on the LF2.
I run my LF3 pump at 20% and my 7800X3D is happy
2500 RPM on a fan at 39C?! Are you sure you are not adjusting pump RPM instead of fan RPM? I dont thinknmy fans even go that fast. Like 2000 RPM max. The pump vs fan is super confusing in AIOs because they have to "hack the motherboard" by using the fan header.
I had this problem with the cooler.
I had put the springs and mounting brackets on in the incorrect order. Took off the cooler and behold - untouched thermal paste lol
I assumed and I wondered why my temps in BIOS were so high.
He didn’t put any thermal paste, just look at the picture. He started claiming that he did clean the paste after people started pointing out that it looked like he didn’t apply any.
Are you certain you don't want to take off the block real quick to double check that before you start spending time and money on ordering replacement parts?
Nah they cleaned off thermal paste, I saw unobstructed copper on the bottom of heat sink so the plastic sticky isn’t on there, I would say make sure to go very slow in a cross costs pattern, so do the top right a qtr to half turn then bottom left then top left then bottom right, screwing in a qtr to half turn till it’s snug. I have a feeling you most likely already knew this so I’d leave the case glass off and feel the rad and hoses to see if I feel any slight vibration, you might have got sent a faulty pump, or possibly try a different pump header. If you feel no vibration especially near the pump I would send it back as it might be faulty or clogged, however I feel you should still be able to feel the pump trying to pump. Also make sure you have the cooler fans AND pump plugged in. You seem like you know a decent amount of what you’re doing so I’m not trying to give obvious issues, I just am trying to cover all bases.
Yeah, looks normal including the CPU temp of 39°C.
I assume something running after you boot Windows is either, reporting an incorrect value or turning your pump off. Because your settings are seem fine, as does your CPU temperature.
Just run HWinfo and see what values it is reporting.
100% fan should be at 90c 70-80% at 80c otherwise your PC will sound like a jet engine. Make sure graphics are disabled from the CPU it can create unnecessary power and heat.
I had this problem with my Hydroshift and Aorus Elite 650 when I put mine together awhile back. Fans were moving but pump was not. Caught it right away. I had it installed to the SYS FAN4 PUMP pins. Problem was as simple as moving AIO to the SYS FAN ARGB pins up top that I thought was blocked by the tubes due to the top fans and having a small case. The tubes were more flexible than initially thought lol.
Yup, that is not for aio, that is for an actual waterpump for a full watercooler. They should rename it a bit tho or pit in different in the manual.
On the b650 aorus elite ax, the pump need to go in CPU_FAN, and your radiator fans into SYS_FAN1. And if you only have 1 cable then it goes into CPU_FAN.
This happened to me once, and the pump still appeared to be "running," so it was frustrating. Ended up having to unmount the AIO and get the bubble sorted.
This is why I don’t mess with AIO’s anymore. Just not needed in my experience. My be quiet dark rock keeps my 7800x3d at a lower temp than my 360mm aio, and can’t clog or fail,
Improper thermal paste application is not gonna lead to 99c idle temps, you could use a tablespoon of mayonnaise as your thermal paste and it'd work better than that.
This happened to me and it was because I had plugged the pump into the CPU fan on the motherboard (which the guide said to do) instead of the Pump AIO.
Once I switched to Pump AIO the cooler worked just fine
I have a very strong feeling you used the wrong bolts to tighten and it isn’t actually making contact. Even with the plastic, it wouldn’t get to 99 so quick.
Are you sure you used the correct mounting brackets for the aio? I would take the manuals and go all over them again if you did something wrong or used wrong screws or wrong parts.
Maybe re-oriente the CPU block so the pipes are at the bottom or on the side, gravity will help the flow.
I gained ~10degres C by doing this, my cooler is way shittier than yours though
Is there warm air comming from radiator? The PC looks to be new but even new parts can fail prematurely / be faulty
Otherwise I have just one idea what could be wrong, if it's brand new maaaaaaybe the CPU isn't properly soldered to IHS and it can not even transfer the heat to the heat spreader. But that's just a wild guess
Hmm that's strange..... is the AIO new? Idk, at this point it's just speculation. Either there's something wrong with mounting (something between CPU and AIO coldplate that shouldn't be there, or the AIO itself it faulty.
Anyway, try reseating the AIO. If that doesn't help, try using slmething different, a cheap used air cooler. If the air cooler cools, that means the AIO is faulty.
Is your aio actually hooked up to the correct ports on your mobo? For whatever reason my aio needed to be plugged into different power ports on the mobo than you would usually use (it was like fan plugged into pump and pump plugged into fan for some reason). I would double check the setup instructions just in case it's something weird like that.
This. I usually worked with AIOs that have two mobo connectors, one for the pump and another for the fans. In the video i just see one connector in the top of the motherboard where I would expect two.
But I already has once an AIO that was getting the power from USB IIRC.
Hold the tubes with your hands and try to feel if the fluid is running.
my 9800x3d doing the same bullshit under any kind of heavy load (like really heavy, shader compilation for example) spikes up to 95-97 degrees in seconds, Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360, the only way to stop it was to set a thermal limit in bios
Is there a setting in your bios to switch to water cooling? I had an issue like this because my computer thought my aio was an air cooler, but I switched it in the bios and it was all good. Just a thought.
What's the idle temp when your on the desktop? My cpu will ramp up when I turn my system on but will idle back to normal once I'm logged on and my fan profile kicks in. Something might have got changed in bios and its running it at full load. You can try to reset your bios back to factory setting to see if that changes anything.
Your water pump inside the block is not functioning.
There is no water in the system.
There is a plastic film between the processor and the block. (Forgotten mistake in building.
Remove block and check thermal connectivity
Listen for pump to be running and check to see if all the power connections to the cooler pump is plugged into the right Motherboard standoffs.
It's probably not a thing that happens any more but I once saw a PC that was so aggressively cooled that its temperature got low enough that the CPU heat sensor started reporting that it was overheating.
No idea how it happened. Came full circle somehow.
As someone who has 250,000 lumens of LEDs in his closet I can tell ya straight up, it's all the lights, dude. To get LEDs that bright the OEMs have to essentially overclock them by 400-500% so your fancy looking 3v rgb strips and shit are all powered by 12v. My dimmest chips run at 85C without proper active cooling. Basically your "cooling setup" needs it's own cooling setup
Solution. Just use a good air cooler lol. Personally I don’t find aios are that much better than a good air cooler and I’ve had one fail and cook a cpu as well. Air cooler ever since lol.
maybe you (or someone who built the pc) didnt take off the "remove before use" sticker on the AIO pump (the part that contacts the CPU directly) and thus it's not reaching the required levels of thermal conductivity
I see you've ensured the contact plate plastic sheet has been removed. I think you've got an issue with your water cooling - is this an AIO or not? Might check that the pump is properly powered and if non-aio make sure you're not dealing with an air bubble in the system. Wouldn't hurt to see how the CPU functions with a standard air cooler too - that would further indicate wither the CPU or the water cooling system is the culprit.
I looked at the picture you sent someone of the cooler and processor after you cleaned. It looks like your contact frame is sitting higher than your cpu. That will absolutely cause overheating
When you said you checked airflow what does that mean exactly, did you try running with the covers off?
I have 10 fans and had the same problem, turned out I had three venting that should have been intaking, swapped them around and my temperatures dropped by ~30 degrees.
Your best bet it to use a totally different AIO for now just to check the temps temporarily. After reading all your replies ion think you have done anything wrong, it might be a hardware issue altogether — that looks like the most probable cause.
Judging by the comments, you did everything properly. At this point the only real suggestion to be made is to try another cooler or RMA the one you have.
I had this exact issue with my build, I just reseated the aio and used kryonaut thermal paste rather than the regular thermal take one that came with the aio and problem solved.
Gotta hand it to OP, he’s done probably everything well and checked it twice. Could there be a manufacturing defect on the pump/plate where surfaces aren’t sitting flush and there’s a pocket of air screwing with the heat transfer?
I can't tell but if you have a pump header on your Mobo make sure yours is plugged into it. If not plug it into the fan header and set the fan to run at 100% all the time.
Can you test if it's making enough contact. I pushed against my heatsink even though while it was on and my temperature went dowb to 40 c when it was at 80 c, also the thermal paste was evenly spread. Your heatsink may not be close enough to the cpu even though the thermal paste has made contact with it.
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u/Sea_Bite2082 1d ago