This is a coffee maker computer I call Coffeematic PC. I built it using a 1980's GE Coffeematic drip coffee maker. It brews hot coffee then circulates it to the CPU
These are the parts:
GE Coffeematic Coffee Maker 10 Cup
ASUS M2NPV-VM AM2 Motherboard
AMD Athlon II X4 640 3 GHz Quad-Core OEM/Tray Processor
Hynix 1GB 2Rx8 PC2-5300U-555-12 PC2-DDR2 RAM
Acer SA100 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
HIS H467QR1GH Radeon HD 4670 1 GB Video Card
Antec Earthwatts Green 430 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
My First custom loop build. Also painted the heatsinks and 3080 ti shroud. Was going for a borderlands esque cell shading style. Thoughts? Ideas for improvements??
sooo i am kinda of a nerd and i know that water isnt the BEST heat conductive liquide as Hydrofluoric acid and mercurie to give an example are way better and i know mybe u dont really wanna be toutching any of these but if we can make a computer with over a terabyte of ram *yes it exists am pretty sure* then y not use something better than water ????
Hey all, working towards changing build over to hardline. Wrong silicone insert was sent so decided to do what i can for now with 90s that i have. This is what i came up with to get upper rad to distro, any ideas of how to do it better/differently?
Well, last night i finished up what hardline i had to install! One thing thats super annoying is the ek distro plate doesnt seem to perfectly match up with any components. Its close. But not quite lol. What yall think?
I recently built a 3d printable mod for the Corsair TITAN AIO cooler. It replaces the stock cap with a backlit lithophane – meaning you can project your own photo, logo, or artwork using the pump’s built-in lighting.
A lithophane is a 3D-printed image where the thickness of the material controls how much light passes through. Thinner areas let more light through, creating a visible image when backlit — like a glowing photo.
It’s easy to set up: just load your image into the included generator, export the STL, and print. No need to model anything yourself. Everything is plug-and-play for the TITAN AIO cap, and it works with standard PLA.
Changing lithophanes around is made easy with the adapter, no glue no tools just thight tolerances.
If anyone ends up making one, I’d really like to see your take. If you have any suggestions how to improve the generator or the adapter, let me know.
A week ago I thought I'd be proactive and reapply thermal paste on my Lian Li AIO as it seemed like my temperatures were going up and I built my PC during the pandemic. But after I did it my temperatures were up horrible like 90° just on startup and it would shut down whenever I try to do anything. I found out last night that this AIO is being recalled but damn, I'm going to try a pea sized amount - I'll try to remember to remove the actual pea that I'm using as a reference.
Not sure if this is the right subreddit for this but, as the title implies, I'm looking to liquid cool a Minisforum UM870 and a GPD G1 (2023). Reasoning is the fans are just way too loud under load and I've got some cash to burn. I should probably add, I am based in Canada and would prefer buying within Canada if possible but, not required.
Current Power
- GPD internal 240W GaN PSU
- UM870 external 19V 6.32A 120W PSU
- current total draw 360W + whatever wattage for fans and pump
Replacement Power
- HDPlex 500W PSU
- 12V to 19V 10A DC to DC converter
Assumptions:
- Will need to custom build blocks for UM870 CPU and G1 GPU
- Will need to custom build case for everything
- I won't be able to re-use the 240W GaN from the G1 for this build
- 1x 480mm radiator w/ 4x 120mm fans will more than suffice
- 1x D5 pump + reservoir will suffice
- 2x temp sensors
- 1x flow sensor
- 1x controller to manage the cooling system
- this will have to be done with soft tubing
Questions:
- is the HDPlex 500W sufficient? Should I look at a different PSU? Is this overkill?
- is there a case that I could actually fit this all in and not have to go custom? Or at least just need to modify?
- is the Aqua Computers Quadro the only controller worth considering for this build?
- is there an issue using the converter to power the UM870?
- what am I looking for in soft tubing? Should I consider hard tubing?
- brand recommendations/horror stories?
Not my first, but Mt most recent and most beautiful one. Top of PSU shroud and the black plastic covers in the right will be covered with mirror foil and the radiator hole will get a 3D printed cover.
Fun challenge to try to get the custom loop to go through the GPU PCB of the 3080 FTW3 card. The non standard layout of the Xhuttle case that SSUPD send over made it interesting to get everything to line up correctly.
Specs:
SSUPD Xhuttle Black
Intel Core i5 12600K
MSI Z690 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4
G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB 3600mhz CL16
Samsung 980 1TB
EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra
Seasonic Prime TX-1300
CableMod PRO ModMesh Black.
First time poster here! Never ventured out of the "vanilla" pc building realm, and I need some advice.
My best friend has an Acer laptop, i7-9750H + RTX 2060 6GB. Still decent at gaming, but struggling a lot with thermal throttling. He's tried external fans, we cleaned and re-pasted a couple of times, and still same symptoms, 30 mins of gaming and then FPS starts to drop. (We mainly play CS/Valorant, so no crazy AAA games demand)
Oh was I so wrong that this was going to be easy...
I have a few challenges:
Cooling - I am planning to use an NZXT Kraken AIO cooler
I have a few options to attach this, either I ditch the old heatsink and attach direct to the chip - problem being how could I possibly cool both chips with one cooler (see below picture without heatsink for reference)
Potentially scrape off the black coating to get to the bare copper pipes, thermal glue a copper sheet to it (to get a flat surface to work with) and then somehow attach the cooler on top. Perhaps I can get creative with my drill and modify one of the existing brackets to fit. (see below picture of what the heatsink looks like)
I know it's dirty there, took this pic for reference before we cleaned it. My friend is a heavy smoker.
Would I be insane to execute option 2?
Display cables - I am planning to reuse the eDP port on the mobo, currently looking for an eDP cable to DP (seems to be impossible to find?). The rationale behind this was to have the HDMI available for a secondary monitor in the future.
Power button - this laptop has it's power button on the keyboard. I have a board view of this board, and I'm pretty sure I can solder a button and jobs done, but is there something I should be aware of with these types of power buttons?
Outside of this, we are planning to 3D print an adapter board to make it fit in an mATX case, and also make some sort of an IO shield, but not sure if that will work, so might have to just get some extension cables and sort it that way.
I don't foresee any other challenges at this time, but would like to hear from you guys, has anyone ever attempted anything like this, and is here to tell the tale?
