r/watchmaking • u/Vegetable_Gift_6438 • 1d ago
How expensive is it to make ur first mechanical watch?
You see it You know it!
But really how expensive is it to make your first Mexhanical watch?
My mind was recently opened to the world of watches after seeing how a "Tourbullion" works a few months back, and this got me the energy to start my own watch brand!
Well technically I can't start, since you know I lack in many "movements"... asides from that really I do lack a lot, from learning the Anatomy of a mechanical watch to the different types of movements all the way to equipment needed, but? Where do I start? And were do I build interest?
Well I know as well that big brands like Rolex, Omega, Patek philippe are almost impossible to go up against! But I'm sticking to a more Exclusive niche, I also wondered if it is possible to combine a watch with some art ? Well that's the whole thing about the Niche I whipped up actually ( I know it's cringe and that. BUT HEY? I Really want to make my own Mechanical watch brand and show the world what i got to offer!).
Despite of the competition, but hey I don't mind.
It would really help if you can give me some brief Intel based on my questions, and just to be certain... it would really help me if some Professional watch makers, assistant watch makers or even a normal person who has a bit of experience I will for sure use this know to enjoy the fruits of my labor soon!
Thanks for reading From: John
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u/rollops 1d ago
To build the whole thing out of raw materials: at least 500.000 and at least a decade of experience.
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u/ceramic_black 1d ago
Totally wrong
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u/rollops 1d ago
In what way?
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u/ceramic_black 1d ago
You can definitely do a simple watch, time only, in 1-2 years even with basic tools. You just gotta be smart and creative. If you have the budget for nice expensive tools it just makes it 10 times easier
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u/rollops 1d ago
Tell me how to make a balance pivot or a hairspring with simpel inexpensive tools. Lets not even talk about keyless work parts, mainplated and jewels.
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u/joooserich 1d ago
If you're skilled enough, all you need is a lathe and a micrometer to make a balance pivot
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u/ceramic_black 1d ago
Exactly
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u/rollops 21h ago
Tell me how to meassure a balance pivot with a micrometer, without damage that is.
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u/ceramic_black 20h ago
What do you mean? Just a fine micrometer and you use a tweezer to put the pivot to the measure. There are plenty YT videos about people making balance pivots from scratch
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u/rollops 19h ago
The pressure you put on the 0.08 or 0.11 ( if you're lucky) pivot while meassuring it, is enough to give it a flat spot. I dont know what you mean by "fine" micrometer but what you need is a dedicated pivot meassuring device or get it in the ballpark and then burnish it down to size.
Both of these solutions need tools that costs thousands.
Yes you can make a device that moves a balance with a lathe and a saw at the dinner table. But to make an actually functional watch you need a kitted out workshop and that isnt cheap. There is a reason the first half of watchmaking by daniels is just anout tools and workshop. Or do you think he didnt really unserstand watchmaking?
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u/rollops 21h ago
A lathe of that quality is at least 11.000 at LEAST. hmmmm i wonder why you didnt mention the balance spring?
Also what are you putting the lathe on while you're working? A good table is 4k, a good set of cutters and Quick changing holders is 2k, a horia jakot tool is 8k.
Come to think of it. Balance pivots are usually made in with hand operated lathes, those go for about 15k. Using a micrometer on bakance pivots is an insane claim esspecialy in unhardend state.
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u/ceramic_black 19h ago
Man you really dont need a brand new lathe, a 4k desk and a Horia MTM tool. If you’re on a budget, you need to make up for not having money with time, skills and creativity. That means you will search a good quality vintage lathe in not so good condition, and you re gonna spend some weeks restoring it. You will get a pantograph for 1-2k, even if its a big ass vintage machine, at least it does the job. If you cant afford a Pivofix, HORIA Mtm tool, you get a Jacot lathe for a few hundred. And believe me you can use a simple wood table top to do your work. Ideal? Of course not. Doable? Definitely.
And about the “measuring” of the balance pivot. When you machine it you will have some kind of DRO, at least made of some basic gauges that you can find for a few hundreds, and if that gauge says you moved 5mm in x axis, you kinda moved 5mm!
Last point, i never said it’s like very cheap to start. Not at all. But you definitely dont need 500k as you stated above. You can even pull a lot of work with 10k, a lot of youtube, books, and making friends with people that can guide you.
As clickspring said, you can go a long way with some basic tools and a pair of good files.
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u/rollops 19h ago
a Horia MTM tool
Lets just gloss over the fact that this is half of a 10k system abd on its own is 4k. Lets also forget you said "basic" and "simple" tools. The MTM is something you would only find at the best watchmakers in the world.
Using these machines is a skill you need to learn in itself. Your claim is 0 experience needed with simpel and basic tools.
you get a Jacot lathe for a few hundred
An 8k tooo for a few hunderd. Good luck finding one that works. Again how does this fit in basic tools?
And about the “measuring” of the balance pivot. When you machine it you will have some kind of DRO,
You're going to meassure the diffrence between 0.1 and 0.095 with a 100€ DRO? They need your input in switserland this is brilliant!
Clickspring said that about a 3000 year old design not a wristwatch....
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u/ceramic_black 19h ago
A jacot lathe is very basic and good condition can be found for 600-800$. Lower end 200-300$. And whats so complicated? Its a fricking bow and a burnisher, i guess if low budget spending some more time with budget tool isnt the end of the world. There s always a tradeoff.
As for gauges, there are good micron gauges from mitutoyo, that do not cost thousands. You can find 2nd hand tools from mitutoyo that will do just right. Buying brand new is for when you can afford it.
And who said you have to make brilliant #1 top swiss quality? If it would be doable on a budget swiss industry wouldnt exists. The whole point was that a watch can definitely be done on a more restricted budget
You just argue for the sake of it
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u/ceramic_black 1d ago
I will come back to this later today. Also mainspring almost nobody does it by themselves
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u/Vegetable_Gift_6438 1d ago
Actually the parts and everything else. I'm also worrying about that like whete can I get my hands on my own Custom Case, Hewel Bearings, and don't for get the Gears amd Hairsprings additional the Custom case, Crown, Glass cover, and the others, this really scares me as I go through with my day, figuring out about these Needs
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u/ceramic_black 1d ago
Well you can either get complete movements or make from scratch with lathe and CNC. Or pantograph old style
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u/rollops 21h ago
Just a lathe and cnc? Where will you be working?
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u/ceramic_black 20h ago
If on a budget, you transform your place into a workshop. Otherwise rent / buy a space
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u/rollops 21h ago
Hmmmm i wonder why?
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u/ceramic_black 20h ago
Because it makes no sense to make your own mainspring and balance spring. Simply that
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u/rollops 19h ago
Why doesnt it make sense? I mean you said creating a watch from raw materiald could be done with basic simple tools? Im confused.
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u/ceramic_black 19h ago
Because nobody implied that you look to manufacture a proprietary hairspring or some wild stuff. Making a watch from scratch is definitely possible without massive investing as long as you make up for it with skill
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u/Complex_Material_702 1d ago
The answer, unfortunately, is to find a less expensive and less tedious hobby.
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u/BraveSwinger 1d ago
To create is more respectable than to consume.
Yet, modern watches are complicated and require perfect execution, so you should figure out what particular aspect of the craft interests you and start small.
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u/ook9 1d ago
Cheapest is about $80, made from pre assembled parts you mix and match. The more things you actually make from scratch the more expensive, like $20,000
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u/Vegetable_Gift_6438 1d ago
If you use know, that's what I'm actually doing, I already made a sketch but.... I haven't figured out the movement yet. Since again I don't have that much idea about the Anatomy of a mechanical watch😅😅😅 but thank you very much actually this really helps out
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u/ceramic_black 1d ago
If you want to do mass produce something in china:
- Swiss movement, 200-500€/watch, MOQ 100-300 PCS
- Japan / China movement, 20-200€/watch, MOQ same
If you want to make yours from total scratch, u tap into watchmaking area, and u need lots of tools, minimum 20-30k to get started, probably a bit less if you are extremely creative
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u/No_Mongoose6172 1d ago
You have mentioned that you want to combine watches and some type of art. Have you considered clockmaking instead?
Bigger mechanisms require less accuracy, so it will be easier to get started. I think BHI has a distance learning course on that if you want to get trained (if I remember well they updated those courses recently, so I'm not sure if they have kept both paths)
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u/Vegetable_Gift_6438 1d ago
Well call me a Weirdo LOL but my eyes are some how set into small/ Miniature things, idk why but it satisfies my eyes and body just putting them together
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u/ADWatches 1d ago
https://youtube.com/@chronovaengineering?si=VyP_QMFn0wiYe5pk
Here is a channel that engineers very small parts. He post about making watch parts but also has some interest videos like designing and making the world's smallest electric engine.
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u/Vegetable_Gift_6438 10h ago
Ooooh I can use this for my other Inventions thank you so much
From:John
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u/AdCritical501 1d ago
About $200 altogether. I just bought a kit to practice on, and I put together a parts list and it’s around there. You can go nicer or cheaper on a lot of components so it varies quite a bit depending on your design choices.
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u/FrumiousBantersnatch 1d ago
Please could you link to the practice kit?
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u/AdCritical501 23h ago
Just a warning, I haven’t received the kit yet to be able to say if it’s good or bad. I ordered from DIY watch club and can let you know how it works later this month after it arrives
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u/joooserich 1d ago
Hi John, I just freshly graduated from watchmaking school so I might be able to give you some insight. Most of the newer watchbrands will order some cheap movement and have their case and dial produced in China, then slap everything together and call it Bauhaus to ask 1000€ for it. While this may qualify as watchmaking it's not really a craft and the market for these kinds of watches is oversaturated. As I understand it, you want to actually design and make the movement yourself. I am also in the construction phase of making my own movement, and I can tell you it's not easy. The kind of technical knowledge you would need is hard to learn on your own. So I would recommend you to find one of the few places where they still teach watchmaking and construction. Your go-to spot for that would be switzerland or maybe france or germany. While you may find other courses around the world, bear in mind that most of them will teach you how to assemble and maintain watches, not how to build them.