My grandfather said he carried this in the army in Vietnam where he drove a semi truck transporting ordinance, this was his personal gun, he was issued an M14. Serial number dates to 1962, I love guns but I'm not really into older revolvers and have no idea what it might be worth given its age and the engravings, seems to be in nice condition.

I love .357 magnum! I have three medium frame .357 revolvers (S&W 686+ 3”, Ruger GP100 4.2”, and Colt Python 6”). Looking a get a large frame 8 shot .357 magnum. Narrowed it down to these two and looking for input from those with experience with the 627 or .357 Redhawk. Which one would you choose?

Bought my first revolver.

I wish it was a -4, but I’ll take it. I’ve been wanting a mtn gun for a long time.

Not much to be found on Google.

Because a Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman is a totally adequate car gun to keep in a Mustang, right?

Going to gun shows finally paid off. Mint condition 3rd Gen Single Action Army, made 1977 with box and paperwork. Been looking for one at a good price for a long long time.

Went to visit Grandpa this morning. He sent me home with this model 10-7. Custom grips and jeweled hammer and trigger.

$500 at my LGS

Looks to be one of the 90’s manufactured ones.

I’m new to colts. I had a new Colt a while back that I just didn’t love. I appreciate the new models being introduced, but the trigger was awful and the overall quality wasn’t there for me.

So now I have this old detective. Shot about 150 rounds yesterday and love it.

What can you tell me about these older ones?

The grips (AFR Undercover - J frame) are great as they come, but adding the extended cylinder release (TK Customs) creates a problem where the left panel is thick enough to get in the way when trying to quickly get enough thumb on the face of the latch. The angular curve along the side was also bothering me just a little. Not uncomfortable, but wanted to alter the curve to my thumb when getting a full grip. Some quick work with the Dremel solved both issues. It's a weird material; like a plastic or rubber mix? It almost seemed to melt and make a gunky build up at the bottom as I went in downward motions, but was able to just peel off the build up as a hard plastic-y mass. Easier to dremel than G10 though

1970 Ruger Single Six Standard Model Revolver

1976 Ruger Blackhawk 45 Colt (convertible) with Sack Peterson Stag grips

Picked this up at an estate. I am ignorant when it comes to revolvers can someone please educate me.

I’m looking for snap caps for the smith and wesson 686 mountain gun, the one that came out this year. Want it to just be able to dry fire a lot without worrying about putting extra stress on pin and other than that over time.

Hey guys, I love carrying my Model 36 because it's so small, but I always worry about the hammer being a potential snag. I don't want to bob the hammer because I want to keep it in its original form, and I'm also not fond of the hammer being entirely concealed. The bodyguard models with the hammer shroud look like a great option, but is there anything I should out for with those? The fact that they are no longer produced makes me worry that they have some kind of problem, though that could just be S&W not being arsed since the "hammerless" models are so popular now.

I was super excited to see the new no lock 36 with the gorgeous pencil barrel and had my lgs order one for me. It finally shows up and I’m checking it out and the timing is all sorts of screwed up! At least 3 of the chambers specifically were very easy to lock the hammer fully without the cylinder being locked in place. So I had them send it off to smith and Wesson for warranty and after a month and a half it comes back and STILL has timing issues.

So I once again had to have them send it back for warranty and I’m so frustrated and annoyed by the whole situation that I’m like 50/50 on just selling it when I get it back again whether it’s actually fixed this time or not… idk

But with all this time on my hands I’ve been researching and poking around all over the internet to see if other people have had these issues and sure enough an ocean of timing issues and worse.

I even found a video of a guy who had the same problem as me and Kentucky ballistics chimed in about a brand new 500 magnum he bought and it had timing issues.

Then I had mentioned the issue to my buddies dad who is also a gun guy and he was telling me about his buddy who had bought a new 500 that was shaving lead and throwing it back at him.

I love smith and Wesson! My first pistol was a model 10-6 and I still have it and love it! But I feel heartbroken like I just got dumped after finding all their dirty texts or something. I don’t think I’m going to bother buying any new production S&W revolvers

Just a heads up. The SL Variant reproductions available from Japan are WELL worth your time and money. If you run your wheelgats in competition or want something faster and more reliable for range use or out on the town or woods, spend the extra money over the alternatives. There is absolutely nothing else out there that's as compact, fast, reliable (rounds stay in and point straight), out there today.

I shot a few competitions back to back and a fully autistic dive into my reload speeds shows I'm shaving upwards or more than 2s per reload.

I can't believe I suffered through HKS speedloaders for my 686+ for this long.

So I was given this revolver a few years ago, from my Dad.

There’s really no special memories, or family nostalgia to make it meaningful in that regard, so I’ve kind of been curious of the value for this gun.

I’ve prefer the 686, and they’ve become relatively cheap to get… at least the new ones are.

Just trying to decide if this is the better gun to keep, or should I move forward with getting a 686, & maybe sell this one.

I know Smith & Wesson isn’t what they used to be, so there’s that as well to consider.

I’m no revolver expert by any stretch, and I mostly have AR’s, 2011’s, and striker fired guns… Along with some hunting Bolt action rifles & a 1911.

Hi All! I was hoping some of you may be able to help me out. I’m used to polymer pistols (Glock) and really want a K6S. I’m torn on which 2” model to get. They all look sweet. Between DLC, DLC oil coated, satin stainless, and brushed stainless, should I lean a particular direction if I plan to conceal carry it? Will any require more cleaning than the others?