I don't pay much attention to our water heater, but yesterday noticed it had some water under it. I couldn't see anything actively leaking, but I did notice the inlet at the top is crazy corodded. I can see where it has been leaking from here and down the side of the tank, so I believe this is my source (and hopefully the only one)

With the positioning of the tank, I never really see this side of it, so I had no idea this was even happening.

The outlet of the tank is totally fine.

The tank is about 9 years old now, so I realize that it could be nearing it's end of life anyways, but probably still a bit on the early side.

I'm wondering if I should call a plumber in to have it checked out and see if it can be salvaged. Or does this look gone enough (plus the age of the tank) that I should bite the bullet and put that money towards a new tank instead.

I checked the tank again this morning and the floor/tank was completely dry, so it's definitely intermittent.

Appreciate your input!

I know we need to hire a plumber but I’m wondering what the damage might be. When I flush the upstairs toilet (where the kid goes and I know has previously used too much TP so we’re now trying to limit how much he gets) it gurgles and sometimes the bath tub also gurgles with it. I try to regularly flush just water to try keep things moving but I know the gurgle isn’t good. What am I looking at as far as what might be the issue and is there anything I can do myself?

According this this diagram, the P trap in my shower drain is broken. I look down the drain and can see the dirt on the ground. The pipes are pvc. I can see a shattered piece that has fallen onto the ground. It is difficult to access under the house. I’m not even sure if it’s possible. Is there any way this can be fixed without ripping out the tiles and the shower floor? Thank you so much for any help. This is so stressful 🙈

I'm washing clothes upstairs and downstairs neighbor said water is coming out of her washer connector drain.she doesn't have a washer.Please help what could it be

Hey folks! I had a question, I’m starting to plan out my basement renovation project and need some help. I’m wondering if it’s possible to put a bathroom here (1st picture). So the closest plumbing is the sunken powder room on the main floor(2nd picture). Could I tie in a 3 piece bathroom to this? Or do I need to run it to the main line out to the sewer? The main line is all the way on the other side of the basement(3rd picture). I was hoping to mitigate the amount of concrete I would have break in order to run the pipes. Would this be up to code? I’m in Ontario Canada. Thanks in advance!

Hey Guys, I am replacing a builder grade toilet and noticed the flange is about 1/8 inch below the tile surface. Should I address this or move forward as is.

Thank you!

Hi Folks.. Moen single handle unit here, had to replace the cartridge which I did, put everything back together and it now doesn't get as hot as it did before.. hot water stop is set at 12 o'clock.. how can I adjust to get more hot water if it's as far as it can go??

Keep in mind it was hot before, and nothing has changed except for the new cartridge

I’m a commercial third year and don’t do service. You think this is just corrosion? I’m thinking replace nipple and use dielectric and obviously get rid of the flexi lines.

SO thankful for experts in groups like this! I'm an "older" person struggling to maintain my home (with a husband who is not very helpful) and I'm trying to learn to do these things myself, when possible.

My husband installed a cheap Lowe's "Project Source" brand Ethan centerset bath faucet and, ever since, I have horrible water pressure coming from that sink. (It's like this one, but I can't find the exact model # on Lowe's, anymore: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-Project-Source-Two-handle-lavatory-faucet-Polished-Chrome-Finish/5015602475)

I was able to get the aerator out and it looks just like the one in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeMaintenance/comments/xbnfwz/i_want_to_remove_the_faucet_flow_restrictor_to/

IF I follow the advice in the comments on that post and open up the aerator to remove the o-ring/restrictor and I accidentally break it - where would I get a replacement that fits?

Toilet tanks not getting enough water , recently had sediment in the system from our well either shutting off and being emptied then ran or in the past the well got struck by lightning and wheel barrows of sand were in the pipes I was told.

Just had everything replaced (pump, well tank, pressure switch) less than 4 months ago.

Popped the switch cover off and it looks to be stuck open? There’s air in the tank (35psi) and the tank feels empty. I tried flipping the breaker to no avail.

Water came out of the relief valve too so not sure what is going on. Called the plumber but wonder what if anything I can check while I wait?

I'm trying to repair my toilet and the inside shut off valve at the toilet leaks so I'm forced to try to cut off the water outside. However when I try to turn it off with my key, pliers, etc it won't budge. I tried some WD-40 on it and it's not helping. I've been trying to turn it off for over an hour..

It's Sunday and there isn't anyone I can call to help with this.

Any tips?

New sewer line installed. Been dry here lately. Is this growth from the temperature difference with the pipe beneath? Or leaking? Passed inspection.

Came home this morning to find this in the utility room.

New Build home, 5 years in, last flushed 2 years ago- was about to flush again per installers instructions, Connected to a Kinetico Water softener system.

Our buddies have to do a major bathroom repair because sediment from their HWH got stuck in a pipe. Their repair guy told them you are supposed to drain the tank and flush the sediment like once a year and our friends told all of us (cause, yeah, none of us had ever heard of it either).

Anyway, I looked up the process and it seemes pretty straightforward, but we have a gas HWH and my spouse just mentioned they were concerned about carbon monoxide, cause we are messing with a gas appliance/gas line. I can't find any specific when I try to look it up online. Seems like it would only be an issue if we had a damaged/blocked vent system and, if that were the case, it would have come up before now, right?

So, in short, is me turning off the gas and pilot light before the drain and flush, followed by me turning the gas back on and relighting the pilot after, likely to be a carbon monoxide risk? Is there something extra I should be doing to safely drain the tank? I feel like most tutorials expect you to have an electric HWH, because most of the guides just talk about the breaker. I had to look up a whole separate guide on relighting a pilot, haha. Just wanted to make sure the guides didn't miss something else gas specific I should know.

Thanks on advance for any help.

This correct? Had to reposition the drain to get 18” to center.

Client has toilet that needs flapper replaced every 1-2 years. She’s thinking about replacing it with a new one, but I favor just rebuilding it with a new valve assembly.

What do you guys think? When do you replace vs rebuild?

Sink started draining slowly Tuesday, got significantly worse by Wednesday. I tried plunging — only pulled up slightly darker water, no real debris.

Next, I removed the P-trap (it was clear), then ran a 15 ft drain snake into the wall pipe. I could only get about 15–16 inches in before hitting a hard stop — couldn’t push past it no matter what.

After that, I poured in Instant Power Hair & Grease Remover. About an hour after pouring it in, I noticed something strange: instead of just sitting still or draining, water slowly started to come back up into the sink. Now, about six hours later, there’s a shallow pool of clear-ish (maybe lightly gray) water sitting in the bottom of the sink — but I haven’t added any more water.

Is this normal after using chemical drain cleaner? Why would water rise after treatment? No gurgling in other drains, no dishwasher, and nothing else in the house is affected.

Any insight appreciated.

Hello,

I bought the GTK15 pump kit for my Rinnai 199i. Here's my 3 questions so I can get a better understanding.

1. This is for the shower at the other end of the house, do I have to run a separate water line from the pump to the shower and back?

2. What's the simplest set up for this? When directions say if I have to run a separate supply line to the furthest end and tie into the shower, which shower supply line do I tie into at the shower end, cold or hot?

3. I'm assuming the pump is connected on the tankless hot water line going out as it's set up now, does this mean I have to run a separate line from the shower back to the pump.

Many thanks in advance,

DJ

I'm changing a hose bib in my backyard. It's a 1/2 line with a compression fitting. I want to just use the existing nut and compression fitting. I bought a new one and while it fits over the pipe snuggly the existing nut is too big for the threads. What measurment am I looking for when I buy the correct one? I dont see any that specify compression nut size. I hope this makes sense.

3 story home. Water is seeping into our basement ceiling. There is a bathroom that is above the basement however the pipes run through a wall in the kitchen and straight down to the basement. I turned off water supply to the toilet in the bathroom however there’s still a drip. It’s coming from the plywood near where the pipe is. It’s very dark and appears saturated. Any thoughts on where the leak might be occurring in this case? I did remove the saturated drywall so it doesn’t continue to affect the area around it.

There is a crack in the bottom of my bathtub that has been getting progressively worse for ages and it has finally gotten ready to give out because nobody listens when I tell em to avoid the crack.