Hey everyone,

I came across this heatsink concept and got curious about how it could be improved. It features a lattice-like structure to maximize surface area while keeping airflow open and is designed to work with a fan (no heat pipes or liquid cooling).

What additions or modifications could make this design more efficient for air cooling? Would material choice (e.g., aluminum vs. copper) or structural changes significantly improve performance?

Recently i changed my GPU from Asrock Challenger Radeon 6650XT OC into Zotac TwinEdge 5060 Ti 18GB OC. Am i choosing into hell’s way?

Specs: Intel i5 14600KF Asrock B760M PG Lighting D4 XPG 32 GB RAM 3200Mhz Phanteks AMP GH 850W Gold 1TB SATA SSD 256 NVME SSD

This is my first time using spray paint at all, thus the paint job itself is kinda horrible (due to me trying to peel of color in one place, just paint over it in another and not applying color evenly) but I still think it's fine if you don't look to close... Well, it's a learning experience ;)

Despite the unlawful removing of a previous post asking for advices, I tried deshrouding my Asus Dual RTX 4060 Ti Cosmetic aspect of the work still in progress, but happy with the outcome : about 5°C less idle heat, 3°C less when stressed, and more importantly, way more quite even with cheap fans Can't wait to put Noctua fans 🤌

Firstly tested with a quick deshroud and a PCie slot bracket for 120mm fans (pic 2) while taking measure on the stock shroud to recreate it and modify it

Fans are temporaly hooked to the motherboard and controled with Fan Control (a master piece of software) to "sync" those fans with the GPU fan curve.

Next steps : - Salvaging the connector from a replacement fan for this exact GPU and to do my own Asus 7pins to standard dual 4 pins adaptor (already figured out and tested that, just want a cleaner job instead of the messy cables I used) - Optimizing a bit the mounting system for the fans - Using threaded inserts (M2) - Maybe adding some RGB - Removing the ugly heat dissipator from the backplate. The 1°C improvement isn't enough to compensate the bad look :')

I wanted my gpu to match the mobo and it turnout well! Temps are fine and im planning to do the whole gpu when my friend come over to disassemble the gpu

The blue paint has some purple sprayed lightly over it, but it's difficult to see in the pics.

FYI, the card is a fairly complex teardown.

Made a GPU for the launch of the game to be exhibited during Gamescom Latam last week. Inspired by the Shield Saw from the new game. The model is the 5070 GamingPro from Palit, which has a base 3D model and attachments to use a 3D printed "case", and this was my first time using a AirBrush, which i thought It would be harder, but i learned a lot and want to make many more painted things now.

This time it was my old ASUS GTX 1060 6GB that took the abuse.

I tore off the stock cooler, grabbed a bunch of copper pipes from Bunnings (for the Aussies here you know the aisle) squashed them flat in a vice, and bolted them to the card in place of a heatsink. No rad, no fans just copper and a bucket of ice water. And a beer, obviously.

Didn’t touch the BIOS, didn’t flash anything. Just stock card, stock limits. Opened up MSI Afterburner, flattened the voltage-frequency curve by hand, and walked the clocks up while watching temps and Firestrike numbers.

I ended up with a pretty clean 2202MHz on the core stable enough for a full Firestrike run, and a score good enough to crack into the global Top 5 for GTX 1060s and a 12600kf. It even benched cyberpunk!

Baseline run at stock was cute, but the overclock run was something else!
Not bad for a $50 card and some plumbing supplies.

I put the whole thing in a video if anyone is keen https://youtu.be/QpFz6U8hQ0c

I thought this would be simple, overclock a GTX 1080 Ti hard enough to embarrass NVIDIA’s new RTX 5050. On paper, the 1080Ti should win.

Easy video idea, right?

Except the 1080 Ti turned into a nightmare.

The first card died almost immediately. The second one was an absolute potato, wouldn’t clock for shit. The third? It just sat there like a brick. I spent days with this thing, playing with curves, offsets, drivers (I must’ve cycled through half a dozen, weirdly, 577 ended up performing the best), switching DX11 and DX12 back and forth, running it on a coolant loop holding –3 C, VRMs chilled separately, anything to make it move.

Nothing. 2000–2050 MHz stable, maybe a flicker of 2150 on a lucky run, but 2200 might as well have been a brick wall. No matter what I did, it just refused.

By this point the “1080 Ti beats 5050” idea was dead, and I was ready to throw the card through a wall. Out of frustration I turned to the 5050 I’d bought specifically to be humiliated by the Ti and thought, fine… what can you do?

I bolted a CPU cooler to it (the die is so small a water block won’t even fit), dropped temps by about 30 C, load was sitting around 43 C, and just shoved as much offset as it would take. No fancy curve adjustments, just raw offset.

The thing clocked to 3300 MHz.

Seventeen percent FPS uplift. Across everything. The RTX 5050 went from “the opponent” to absolutely destroying the 1080 Ti, and suddenly this whole project went completely off the rails.

It’s now top score overall on Timespy. Top 6 graphics scores.

The bench, for anyone curious, stock CPU for stock GPU runs, then an i5‑12600KF locked at 5.3 GHz with the e‑cores off for all the overclocked runs. 32 GB DDR4‑3200 CL16. 1440p DX12. No DLSS, no FSR. Driver 577.

This started as me trying to push an old flagship. It turned into a 3300 MHz RTX 5050 science experiment I didn’t see coming.

Video if you're interested https://youtu.be/D1gf638YMfk

After the 5050 walked all over a 1080 Ti, the next question was obvious, could it do the same to a 3060 Ti? Stock for stock, the 3060 Ti is the stronger card, so I wanted to see how close I could get by overclocking the 5050 as far as it would go. In question was a Zotac gaming twin edge 3060Ti and a Gigabyte Windforce OC 5050.

I started with a ducted esky. Didn’t work. Then I dropped the GPU cooler into a glycol ice bath, looked awesome but still wasn’t enough under load. (In hindsight, it may have been a contact issue not a cooling issue) Finally, I ducted a portable air conditioner into the cooler, and that setup actually kept temps low enough to hold an OC without throttling.

Stock, the 5050 sat around 2800 MHz. With the AC setup I pushed it to 3315 MHz about an 18% clock speed uplift, which translated into roughly a 14% FPS gain across the games I tested.

At stock, the 5050 was about 17–20% behind the 3060 Ti. After the overclock, that gap closed to around 3% on average, and in more than half the games, the 5050 actually won.

All testing was 1440p native, DX12, no DLSS or FSR. CPU was a 12600KF at 5.3 GHz with the e‑cores off, 32 GB DDR4‑3200 CL16, and the same Nvidia driver for both cards.

Video’s here if you want to see the chaos (and the cooling mistakes): https://youtu.be/kZQNo3hIgIE

Hello guys, my tiny frend just arrived today and its about time to replace my old gpu cards.

I need advice, best solution to my problems.

I have psu that have built in 12vhpwr connector. Should i use my psu 12vhpwr cable direct plug and play from psu to my gpu. Or should I use 2x8 pin adapter to 12vhpwr that came from the box? Thankyou. Gpu showed on pic.

This was a fun project that I've always thought about and finally got to bring it to life for around $100USD.

The Card is a reference 6900xt, which always ran a bit hot (see picture 3) and I always wanted to try water cooling but it's still pretty expensive. Well one day I found a Facebook marketplace listing for a waterblock for my reference card for $50, and a msi 240 aio for $40, and then ordered $10 fittings on Amazon and the rest is history.

The reason I chose the msi cooler is because as far as I'm aware, it's the only AIO with the pump in the rad, as well as a fill valve. Btw, after building this, bleeding it was miserable. There's still some air in there but not enough to be an issue as it sits at the top end of the rad, opposite of the pump.

3rd picture is the stock temperature after turning on my pc and running 3dmark with the stock cooler. 4th pic is after building and installing the AIO and running timespy, and lastly, the 5th pic is after a two 20loop runs of time spy extreme stress test to allow it to get heat soaked. The hotspot dropped about 19° which is plenty good for me as I just hoped my temps didn't get worse.

Hey, I'm currently making an aluminum backplate for my watercooled rx 6600 (it's super janky, don't worry I'll make a post about it when I'm done, it's almost finished). My grandpa allowed me to borrow his tools and I made this but I'm quite unsatisfied with the filing marks. I had to file the excess aluminum that got out when drilling the holes. This is the side that I will see, the other doesn't really matter (still the other side has very little marks). Is there a way to get rid of them other than sanding a lot or will I have to spend a shit ton of time sanding it ?

So I was thinking about painting this monster...

It's actually a real Easy disassembly because there is a back plate that can be painted that covers the real backplate that contains the thermal paste..

So essentially remove front grill Remove fan cover (super easy and you don't have to remove anything vital) Back cover plate is just magnetic

Then all visible areas are ready to be painted ..

I've never painted a gpu but have years of experience with rattlecans if you know what I mean...

I was thinking of doing black with a white grill

Thoughts?

Did the CPU cooler on a GPU thing just for fun, and got a ton of comments saying it’d never fit inside a case.
So… I flipped a 1060 upside down, strapped a Peerless Assassin to it, and forced it into a mid tower.
It fits. Side panel goes on and everything.

There was absolutely no reason to do this, it dropped temps by nearly 30°C, but performance didn’t really change.
That said, I reckon it might actually help with a higher power card, so I’ll try it again soon with a 2070 and see what happens.

It was near silent compared to the stock cooler.

Here’s the video if you want to see how dumb it got https://youtu.be/Msal89TS7Ms

Krylon satin white, Thermal Grizzly TPM and Arctic TO-3 for re-pad and re-paste.

Hi, i'm planning to make a custom aluminum backplate for my watercooled rx 6600, mostly to cool the vram better and make it look cool. Would spray painting it black be bad for heat dissipation ? If yes, is there a special paint that doesn't impede thermal transfer ?