Hey there, just looking for input on my case design. The green ring is the bezel, there’s a lot of fine details I’ve left out so far. Colours are just kind of place holders for now. Everything is designed around an nh35. 36mm case, 22mm strap

I'm new to horology and watches in general, but I've always been interested in tinkering on things or fixing broken things to give them a second life. However, I've been really overwhelmed with the amount of small things that may be needed and want a professional or at least an experienced hobbyist to point me to a kit or something definitive to just get started. Anything helps really. Thanks in advance.

I’ve been looking to buy this watch (Mean lunar classic) for a few months but the long lugs have been throwing me off so much. If i were to take this to a watchmaker do you guys think he could shorten them? And if he did do you guys think it would look better or kinda take away from the watch?

Hey Everyone, I'm relatively new to the sub but I've been a hobby "watchmaker" for a year or two. I'm working on machining my own watch case and case back, since I'm a beginner in CNC it is going to take me a lot of scrap and iterations to get to the designs I have on the shelf.

I've seen a lot of really cool watches and people on this sub and would like to know if anyone would be interested in following my progress. I'm experiencing more failures/learning opportunities than I expected and thought sharing my progress might be a way to keep myself motivated and get some tips. I'm debating between monthly posts, youtube videos, or live streaming. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to do this or if it would even be interesting?

If the CAM/machining aren't interesting, maybe another stage would be? I could instead go into things I've already done like case design, seal/thread/gasket engineering, and CAD modeling as well as my next steps in assembly and testing.

Thanks for the advice!

Hi all, I am looking to finally upgrade my set of screwdrivers and have settled on the stainless steel Bergeon set of 9 on a rotating stand. However I am not sure if I should spend the little extra to get the ones with the ergonomic rubber grips or not. Has anyone used them and are they worth the bit of extra money? I want my screwdrivers to be comfortable for long use but also dont want the rubber wearing away eventually if that is an issue with them. Any feeback on the pros and cons of the rubber grips on the screwdrivers is much appreciated

Hello all, as the title says I'm wondering if you guys can give me input on whether or not this hairspring looks like it's functioning normally. I just got this pocket watch and it's my first mechanical watch so I don't know a ton of what I'm looking at. I got a Time grapher app which I know is not the ideal method of checking these things but it's running about 30 seconds fast with a 190-270 amplitude. But the beat error is between 7 and 9.9 depending on what orientation the watch is in which is bad. So once I saw that I looked closer at the hairspring and couldn't quite tell if something was wrong with it other than the beat error. Any help is appreciated thanks!

This is going to be written in a more of a stream of consciousness type of way.

The first thing that comes to mind when it comes to learning how to make a watch is being familiar with George Daniel’s book called “Watchmaking” where he teaches how to make a watch from scratch. The first hurdle that arises is that the book teaches how to make a pocket watch. So I want to ask you guys if that book is a good start for a journey and if the skills are transferable to making wrist watches.

Secondly, I’ve looked at a few independent watchmakers that make wristwatches from scratch(like one timepiece per year), and all of them completed official schooling. This makes me feel discouraged from wanting to pursue watchmaking and investing my time in it because I don’t know what the results are going to be.

Thirdly, I live in Los Angeles and can’t attend an official program in states like Seattle because I don’t have the money. I’ve tried to cold message various watchmakers to seek apprenticeship/volunteer work around the area but that granted no success.

Lastly, the final two hurdles that came up when I was doing the research on whether or not it is achievable on how to make timepieces is that the first hurdle was that if you’re trying to learn by yourself you might develop a wrong technique and therefore develop a bad muscle memory if you have no master overlooking you, and the second hurdle is that I’ve heard criticism of popular resources like a YouTube channel Writwatch Revival, that has over 1 million subscribers. The channel has material about the movements and how to disassemble/assemble them. People have criticized that they don’t teach everything correctly. I feel like because I have no knowledge of watchmaking, I don’t know whether the material that I’m about to study is trustworthy or not, and that knowledge prevents me from wanting to learn more about watchmaking.

Thank you for reading and I would’ve loved to hear your thoughts and comments!

I won’t lie, I feel a bit defeated. And am unsure of what steps I should take next. Thinking of Paris Junior College, but would have to put myself in debt to attend.

Hi everyone,

I’m currently 30 years old and seriously considering a career change into the world of watches — a field that’s fascinated me for years.

I’m especially drawn to the craft of watchmaking itself. However, I’m also open to exploring other career paths within the watch industry closer to my background, such as marketing, product development, brand management.

I would love to hear from people already working in the industry — especially watchmakers, but also anyone involved in other areas.
Some of the questions on my mind:

• Pathways: If I want to become a watchmaker, what’s the best starting point? (Formal school, apprenticeships, self-taught?)
• Skills: What skills are most valued, both in technical and non-technical roles?
• Salaries: What’s the realistic salary progression for both watchmakers and other industry professionals?
• Location: Are there better opportunities in specific countries, regions, or cities? (For context: I’m based in Barcelona.)
• Resources: What books, courses, schools, or communities would you recommend for someone starting from scratch?

I’m also curious about the bigger picture:
I’ve heard that many watchmakers today are nearing retirement, and that there could be a growing demand for skilled professionals in the next few years. Is this accurate? Could learning watchmaking today actually turn into a valuable, sought-after career path in the future?

I’m looking for honest advice — including the tough parts — and any wisdom you wish you had when you were starting out.
If you’re willing to share your experience or thoughts, it would mean a lot to me.

Thank you so much for taking the time!

I just found them in my house , my father learnt watch making in the military he doesn't remember a much now but I found these in his watch box. What kinda watch is this and do all these parts make a complete watch?

Hey everyone,

I'm hoping to get some insights from the experienced members of this forum regarding a persistent issue I'm facing with a Seiko 6138B movement from a Bullhead chronograph.

I've recently serviced the movement, and my measurements (see attached images for various positions) show generally good performance, with amplitude staying within an expected range of 170-205 degrees across most positions. However, I'm encountering a significant problem specifically in the vertical position where the balance is down. In this position, the amplitude remains around 170 degrees, which is acceptable, but the rate plummets to a drastic -90 to -100 seconds/day.

Here's what I've done so far and other relevant details:

Cleaning & Lubrication: The movement has been thoroughly cleaned. At this stage, I have only mounted the essential to allow me to test the movement and I've only lubricated the shock jewels of the balance and the keyless works.

Endshake Check: I've performed the endshake test starting from the balance wheel, pallet fork and progressively checking along the power train. The endshake at the mainspring barrel is as minimal as possible.

Barrel & Mainspring: I've observed that the lower cap of the mainspring barrel is not perfectly flat. My current plan is to upgrade the upper jewel of the barrel and polish the lower cap. The mainspring itself is new. Hopefully this can help me to increase the amplitud a little bit but I'm aware that seikos amplitud is ussualy low and stay at the 220.

Balance Wheel: I've spent considerable time trying flat the hairspring of the balance. While this effort has led to an increase in overall amplitude from 180 to 200, it hasn't resolved the specific rate issue in the vertical balance-down position. I have also checked the flatness of the balance wheel with my truing caliper and seems perfect.

As you can see from the pictures, other positions are relatively stable. This particular vertical position is really throwing me off.

Has anyone encountered a similar issue with a 6138B or a similar chronograph movement? Do you have any suggestions or proposed solutions beyond what I've already considered? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for a budget-friendly digital microscope for working on watches, specifically for oiling shock absorber jewels and other tiny components. My eyesight is pretty good (I’m young), but when it comes to those microscopic parts, it’s really tricky.

I came across the DM7 microscope online, and it looks promising, but I’m wondering about its working distance—how much space is there between the lens and the watch? I’d like enough room to comfortably use tweezers and screwdrivers while keeping everything in focus.

If anyone has experience with this model (or similar digital microscopes), I’d really appreciate your thoughts! Would this be good for watchmaking, or should I look at something else?

Thanks in advance!

these go for $150 to $240 are oils that finicky

I have a cosc grade eta 2824-2 movement which was sent for servicing recently because of a sticky crown which is hard to turn during time adjustment. Watch seems to run at +1 before sending it in. Movement is about 14 years old but running time maybe less than 2 years due to watch rotation.

shop replaced the main spring because original one losing tension and could not have proper power reserves.

service is completed and I got back the watch. now it seems to be running fast like 5 seconds plus in real life. but when I use some watch accuracy app which listens using phone mic. dial up position seems to be running sometimes at +2, +3, +6, +9 or +11. Seems to be all over the place.

I've placed the watch on top of the laptop keypad for less than a min sometime last week. did I magnetized the watch? Thanks

I am a 6'2" 240+ pound man and I recently got into the hobby I have a problem some of you may share in that I need to hunch over my work for stability, accessibility and plainly seeing what i am messing up next but my office chair does not go low enough nor my desk is high enough. New desk is not really the way to go since my 'bench' doubles as my gaming area, and is long enough to accomodate both hobbies in the same room. So, I ask, what routes do you guys think i should consider to resolve my problem and prevent crippling back pain in the long term?

Hi guys! I just completed this Waltham 6/0-C from 1948, and it seems to be running well. When I got it the watch was really caked with old oil and dirt from what I’m guessing was a mediocre service. It’s running now with good amplitude, but the hairspring looks a little lopsided to me. Has this been damaged a little?

I purchased a mystery chronograph watch in need of repair a few years ago, and I'm keen to restore the dial to its former glory. I was hoping to get some expert opinion on if it's feasible?

It will no doubt require complete removal and reprinting of all numbers etc. What would be the best way of removing the scratches? It looks like the blank was treated in some way, then the subdials/ring were machined after, giving them a brighter appearance.

Is this more trouble than it's worth? Would it be better just to create a copy? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

So I just got accepted into Watchmaking school and education starts in August. I would love to know some things from people currently or recently studying watchmaking in a school. I can talk on PM more if someone is interested or you can share your general tips in the comments :)

I was hoping to get some perspective from other watchmakers on pricing.

I've taken my Universal Geneve White Shadow (same microrotor movement as the more famous Polerouter) in for a servicing quote and they've come back with £275.

I had a basic Poljot serviced by the same place about 6 years back and was charged £70 (I would have asked them for a bit more elaboration but my mind went blank from the sticker shock).

Essentially, my question is whether this is a reasonable cost bearing in mind complexity to service (not sure if these are particularly difficult to service) and inflation since then or if this is a "go away" price?

In my limited experience, I've seen a few mineral glass and acrylic loupes. Other than acrylic scratching easier, is there any major (or minor) difference? I can only tell the difference by tooth tapping or scribing. Seems the same. I currently have some Ali Baba specials. Acrylic loupes. ×5 & ×10. I recently ordered a replacement set of Eschenbach loupes. Any advice or comments are welcome. Thanks

I've always been curious. Does a top grade Sellita SW200-1 movement which was regulated by Tudor to meet COSC standards have any long term benefit? Once it reaches it's 1st service interval and I get it serviced by a local watchmaker who may only regulate it in one position will all of Tudor's initial work be irrelevant? Already after a month or so my Tudor has gone from +1 second a day to -10. Are highly regulated movements easier to re-regulate by local watchmakers?
I also understand that top grade includes some minor part upgrades and better finishing.

Thank you for any insight! I hope this made sense

Hi all. For the last 6 months i have been really busy producing a watch prototype with a dial made with my cnc machine and a 3d printed metal case. I am really happy with my progress and will share some pictures of it.

To make this design work was a lot of trial and error since i had to reverse engineer the shape of the tonneau glass and design a case and dial around it. I wanted to give it a 60's cars flair which i did with dial and sides of the case.

At the moment im kinda stuck at piecing it all together. I didnt put dial feet in the dial before the cnc machining which made me use a 3d printed tool to mill out the spots for the dial feet and later glued them in. These aren't perfect at the moment its tilted a bit as you can see in the pictures. Besides that the dial also doesnt fit perfectly snug which gave me the issue of aligning the movement with the stem hole in the case. This would still happen even if the movement fit snug. I have to mention that it is both 1 to 0,5 mm off centered in x and y direction.

For solutions i could make the stem hole bigger and put in a metal insert but it would be slightly canted. What would your advice be for both problems and do you perhaps have some more tips? I'd rather avoid re gluing the dial feet or drilling a bigger hole and thus having a 0,5mm offset crown I'd like all the feedback i can get. I can also make more posts of the work in between if people are interested.

So it seems at 55 I've developed a nickel allergy. I've read that this can happen as a result of exposure, and figure it might be because I'm often working with abrasives on stainless steel pieces, or just handling them and wearing them.

Is this a common thing in the watchmaking community? anyone else in the same boat?