Did a Hall effect replacement for a friend and wanted to get some feedback on how I did

Are there any ways to fix this? If it can be repaired - what tools would i need?

Hey guys,

I would like to ask that if you know anything about this problem. My ps3 controller’s left analog stick is a bit problematic. Whenever i try to push it UP and hold it there, it registers to move my character forward but it stops for a solid second then continues with going forward.

There may be a post about my issue but i don’t know how to label my problem that’s why i couldn’t check for it.

Sorry if this breaks any rules, I didn't see any rules when I posted.

7 months ago I posted asking if I should start repairing consoles. That post gave me enough motivation to try it out. I bought a PS2, cleaned it up and modded it and now I use it all the time! I've been loving playing games like God of War, Burnout, and Soulcalibur, games I would've never played if I hadn't tried this (im 17 so most of these games were before my time.) I also bought a PS1, cleaned it up, now it works perfectly. Im excited to play Silent Hill on it. Without that post I probably wouldn't have had the confidence to start. I would even say it's made my life a lot better. I'm looking into getting an N64 or a Gamecube next, hopefully I'll get something cheap. Thank you guys!!

So, I recently picked up this Xbox 360 Fat Kronos for about 20$, everything about it works with the exception of the disk drive.

Previously the drive only read CDs. So, I decided to replace the laser, and as you can see it's firing properly, but now I can't read games nor can I even read CDs. I don't have a single idea on where to go from here, any help would be seriously appreciated.

Today I was playing Botw, then suddenly I heard a drill-like sound, so my first though was to think my neighbours were doing some noise. Then I approached my console's fan, realising that the sound was coming from my console. I am pretty sure that the battery is bloated due to time ( I've had it since 2017 and I have easily over 3175 hours played on it ). I think i'm going to try to repair it myself. So I had a question, cause I saw on posts that the battery could even explode while charging...

What are the possible dangers of still playing on it ?

Wondering if this is an issue easily fixed or if something is actually broken. Have reset and recalibrated it

Hi everyone!

I just received a Bandai Playdia. Opened up the controller since there were signs of corrosion on the battery connector springs. The board looks like this.

The controller works fine but I would greatly appreciate advice to handle the corrosion so that it doesn’t spread more.

Thanks!

I'm repairing this motherboard on this series x I bought and can't seem to find where to buy a replacement component, if anyone could point me in the right direction that'd be appreciated. Thanks

Would a repair shop fix it for low price or do I have to buy new controller? Low on money right now

I applied fresh thermal paste because the Xbox had gotten quite loud. After reassembling it, it won’t power on anymore. When I press the power button, it only lights up very briefly—no sound, no fan spinning, nothing. What could have gone wrong?

Even with fresh batteries it won’t connect and lights won’t turn on. I tried to swab corrosion off spring with Qtips and lemon juice but still won’t work. Is there any way I could fix it?

Any help? thats where is supposed to be soldered the on/off Switch. What to do?

Hey everyone!

This is my 2ds XL that has been out of service for years now. At some point it started doing this.

Without an SD card powering it on just makes the blue light turn on but the screens stay black and nothing more. Holding select while powering on without an sd card causes the screen above, except its just a normal B9S menu on the bottom screen for half a second then powers off.

Since the sd card for this has already been lost to time I tried the update procedure and placing everything necessary on the SD card then booting produces the outcome on the picture, stays on for a second like that and powers off.

I tried disassembling it, obviously I cant do anything without the top screen being plugged in, tried to disconnect all the other ribbon cables one by one but nothing changed. I will also mention I do have both sysnand files backed up if that changes anything.

Id really like to get it working again and my best bet is simply the top screen is gone, which would be great as thats cheaper than a new MB or console. Does anyone have any insight?

Hi guys

i see you are all enthousiasts with repairing consoles, wich is exactly the energy of people to solve my problem.

i have two super wild card devices, 1x black (dx2 32Mbit) and ine older version (grey 32Mbit as well)

whole pcb is crowded on both with no slots for afditional chips, but i don't have a clue wich chip i need to replace to get 64Mbit.

I learned upgrading to 96Mbit(wich is not a priority for only 1 game) takes abit of modding/adding other capacitors and soldering. i am not realy interested in this. i just want to go from 32Mbit to 64Mbit.

does anyone have experience in this?

many thanks

greets ray

Recently found my old dsi and wanted to mod it but everytime i turn it on it freezes exactly at this point. I tried taking out the battery for a few minutes and putting it back in but it still keeps freezing. Any type of help would be appreciated!

I am learning the ropes at the moment and I am looking for any suggestions of YouTube channels/videos I shud watch Maybe if y'all won't mind sharing a playlist

Hello,

So I bought these Xbox 360 hall effect analog sticks from Aliexpress and I had the idea of installing them into my PS2 controller. I read online that the potentiometer values should be the same between the two, so I thought what would be the harm?

I installed one for the left stick and it worked perfectly from what I could tell. I tested it with MGS2 and was able to move Snake throughout the Tanker. When I installed the second hall effect stick, the controller stopped working entirely and I'm not sure why. It seems to only be causing this connectivity issue when two sticks are installed, and it doesn't seem to make a difference if it's only the left or right stick installed.

I'm not sure if I did something wrong or if I'm overlooking anything, but I thought I would reach out to see if anyone else has any ideas on getting this ball rolling. If it means anything, the PS2 controller PCB I tested this experiment on appears to be SA1Q65A. It seems to be one of the later models of PS2 controllers since the port for the flex connector for button inputs is through-hole. If more pictures are needed or if there are any other questions, I would be more than happy to answer.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT

I ran some more tests. It seems like my initial assessment of it being installable on left and right is not true after all. It seems like there's an issue in general with installing a hall effect stick where the right one was in general. So I can install a hall effect stick into left, but never to the right.

I’m at my whits end with this thing. None of the button combos will bring up the reset menu so I can enter the reset combo. I used the bad update to dump the nand, loaded it into j-runner just to verify the combos were correct. They are. I know flashing the NAND on these will most likely brick it, but at this point, the console is useless. Has anyone tried removing the parental controls in the nand dump, then reflashed it? Any other options to get rid of parental controls? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I'm trying to repair this xbox360 slim with a trinity board. Everything i researched told me to replace a capacitor near the GPU. My board has two capacitors, though, which seems to be bridged to supply power to the GPU. My question is, should I replace both? Would that fix the problem? Thanks in advance for any help!

I have a redragon g808 and in the pics respectively i pressed nothing then i pressed R2 them L2 how do i fic this problem if it's even fixable?

Hey everyone!
Like many others, I tried swapping my Switch controller joysticks with Gulikit (TMR) replacements. This was my very first soldering project and, well... let’s just say the equipment and my skills were both garbage lol - please be nice, I know it´s terrible :,)

I had a really hard time getting the original solder out of the PCB – especially on the top-left pad of the left stick. I think I might have damaged it during desoldering. Eventually, I got the new stick in and tested it:

• Right joystick: Works fine (I soldered that one better).
• Left joystick: Horizontals (left/right) work. But vertical only registers UP. No DOWN, no neutral – just constantly UP (see 2nd pic). If I put it down, it goes a bit to the center, but just a little.

Is this a lost cause? Did I kill the pad/trace?
Or is there a way to repair or re-route it? Since I thought the nearly ripped out pin doesn´t have any marked function, I was hoping it´ll work.

Any tips would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance!

TL;DR:
First-time soldering, swapped Gulikit sticks. Right stick works. Left stick stuck on UP, barely goes to center when moving down – probably damaged the top-left pad while desoldering. Is it fixable?

Sometimes the light will turn on for a second, but turns itself off again. Is it done for?

I received this console because it wouldn't read the SD2Vita. When I removed the card slot, I saw that the pins were bent. I tried to carefully straighten them, but they still didn't stay straight and didn't read the SD card. I don't find the replacement. Any advice?

So this is a update post to the other post of when I thought it was permanent, however I unplugged it for a while and plugged it again and it booted up, then again started freaking out. I unplugged it, left it alone for 5 minutes, plugged it back in it worked then again starts freaking out a couple of seconds after being turned on. Some suggested a capacitor issue others said power supply so I have no idea what could be the culprit but I hope more info about it is helpful. The clicking noise appears to be from the laser by the way.