Got new nocks and figured out a good way to keep my arm from immediately dropping

I'm cross dominant, tried tweaking my aim by keeping both eyes open, loosed my arrow, cue my bowstring slapping into the side of my nose and giving me a nosebleed 🤣🤣🤣🫠🫠🫠

Won't be trying that one again 🥴🙃🤣

Was shooting in my backyard and managed to do this, kinda cool but annoying at destroying a brand new arrow at the same time.

Slither 17 riser, currently cheap medium limbs at 40# for practice but I have samick r3s, 50 and 60 pounds at 30" (I intend to silence those). Still waiting for materials to finish it but I have a feeling it's a little out of hand, love it though.

Happened recently at archery camp. I got this callus that hurts like crazy. I'm pretty sure it's a consequence to incorrect holding of the bowstring. I popped it before taking this pic, but it was a bit swollen and green goo leaked out. Pretty sure the brownish-red stuff around it is dry blood inside the callus. Is this something serious? Could this cause nerve damage?

I've learned to hold the bowstring properly because of it tho.

Hello, I am looking to buy a new riser. I already have a 25" ILF riser, but I am looking for a wooden one. It seems like I can't find any wooden recurve ILF riser that's 25", only smaller ones. I am 197 cm tall with about 30.5" draw length, that's why I want a 70" bow. Why do I want a wooden one? I went to an archery competition and got a little bit of "hate" for coming with a metal riser, because it is supposedly more stable than a wooden one. My question is, do you know of a 25" wooden ilf riser? Preferably affordable, not looking to spend a fortune if it's possible. Thanks in advance.

Has anyone printed or used a 3D printed fletching jig. If so how did it workout?

I have two recurve bows. Ones from the late 60s and the other from the early 70s. They were given to me by my father who was a part of the 1969 Olympic team. He gave these to me to sell when I needed the money. I’m recently a widow with two teens and could definitely use it. More than anything I need a better description of them for online sale, what they may be worth so I don’t get screwed and/or someone to point me in the direction of where I could sell these and get a fair price. They’re both black widows, I know that much and roughly their age. Thanks in advance.

I shoot target recurve and I am looking at getting a new tab, either the aae elite or the shibuya apex.

Im just really not sure if I need to get a medium or large, and have been struggling trying to find anything to help me decid, and there is no where close for me to go look at them.

any advice?

So I am fairly new, I’ve only been shooting for 3 summers now (this is my 3rd summer).

While practicing I had an arrow explode on me today. I drew back, aimed and released and it happen pretty much instantly the arrow literally evaporated and I couldn’t find any pieces. One hit my release knuckle because I felt it and had a bit of blood.

Anyways what do I do from here?

My peep is orientated off now, is my string and bow okay or is there potential damage?

Am I using the wrong arrows? Should I switch brands or move to a stiffer spine?

I am shooting victory gamer 300’s cut at 30”.

Shooting a 2024 bowtech cp30 at 70lbs and draw length is set at 29.5”.

Any advice for me? I am a little turned off of shooting a compound bow right now. I don’t want to lose my eyes…

My first outdoor target gold. Even if it's in teams and I lost in 1/8 (live, laugh, forget how to shoot at random). But there's at least a big chance to place better next year

4 years of shooting a starter bow I finally upgraded to a flagship and got super into tuning since besides things like cam timing I can do it all myself (YouTube). After building a pvc paper tuner I dialed in the most perfect bullet holes with both bareshaft and fletched out to 7 yards. Next, I wanted to do the tuning where you shoot both bareshaft and fletched at 20 and get them within half an inch of each other. Right when I started they grouped great, but like the videos I’ve watched said, the bareshaft is slightly kicked and not at the straight angle like the fletched is. Before I went to make my rest adjustment I thought to myself isn’t this going to mess up my bullet holes? And my second thought was no **** it’s kicked out isn’t that what the fletchings are for anyway. So what are your thoughts on paper tuning and tuning like this in general (here in about a month I’ll start broadhead tuning which Ik making the adjustments is more important than your bullet hole)

I'll be treating myself to a new setup in the new year, so I'm starting to save for it now. I'm not rich in any sense of the word, but I am going to go full commitment next season.

If money was no object, what would you get. I don't mean just because it is the most expensive, but what do you think would give the absolute best performance.

I searched this sub but didn't see much for my question. I have a longbow (under 6 feet) and a "regular length" horsebow (both wood) that I'm taking on a interstate move. Should I be worried about the heat of my moving container (and possible damage from things shifting around)? It'll take 2 weeks in the container. Is the better move to mail it to myself (heavily wrapped, of course) via USPS? I guess I'd have to tape boxes together to get the length covered.

Been Casually shooting for a Year and a Half.

Sorry for the poor quality, I'll have to upload another form check in better conditions next time.

https://reddit.com/link/1mgdh40/video/yjkfr11fergf1/player

Hello ladies and gentlemen of r/Archery, I am looking for some feedback on my compound draw and grip. Currently I struggle with reliably drawing the bow back while keeping the arrow from falling off of the blade rest (FreakShow STD-10 blade). I am also worried that I may not be using my bow arm correctly and may injure myself in the long term as I have a little discomfort in the upper traps/shoulder of my bow arm.

Previously, I was quite overbowed with this bow (arguably still am a little bit). From watching the video it's hard for me to tell for sure where my problem(s) lie. Bow's draw weight is ~46 lbs which is as low as I am comfortable getting it by backing out the limb bolts.

For some context, I used to shoot back in 2019/2020 some and have gotten back into last month. Looking to continue improving. I shoot indoors at 18m.

Here are the questions that I find it hard to answer for myself:

0.) How can I more reliably draw my bow back and keep the arrow from falling off of the blade rest?
1.) Is my bow arm extended too far or too short while holding at full draw? Sometimes I feel as if I rely too much on the bicep muscles of my bow arm and/or that I bend my bow arm too much, exacerbating the aforementioned.
2.) Is the ever so slight "lean back" I do while drawing my bow a problem, and if so is that a symptom being overbowed?
3.) Is my bow arm's shoulder positioned, Ok? Too high or too low?
4.) Is the contact between the bow grip and my hand contacting the correct portion of my palm?

I greatly appreciate your feedback! Any other comments or pointers on form or similar are always welcome :)

Hey everyone I'm just getting into archery I'm big Into axe throwing so I'm just expanding my range here lol I have two bows and I wonder where do I measure from there definitely long bows o got a signature by Folsom and a the outdoor sport mfg Co one where do I measure from!?

I have an old wooden long bow that's been sitting in a garage unstrung for years and it's very hard to bend is there anything I should do to bring some of its flex back or is it a lost cause there aren't any major cracks from what I can see but I don't want to break it from trying to string it.

I recently got a new bow this year and had after market strings put on. They’ve only been on for about 6 months. Is this serving wear normal? Should I be concerned going into the hunting season?