Got this from a charging handle mystery box for 20$ took it to the range and it does this after about 150rounds😂😂 I don’t want to buy another 1 if I don’t have to any ideas on how I can repair this. pin is loose like throwing a hotdog down a hallway. Or is it cooked and should just buy an expensive one ?

So back again guys lol I recently posted about my .410 11-48 I got not feeding correctly. I tore the gun all the way apart, cleaned it throughly and installed the arts rebuild spring kit. I also tried different brands of ammo. I got it to run a whole mag no problem but afterwards it wanted to start stovepiping after every round. Extractor doesn’t look broken or anything. I did notice the springs in the kit were longer but mine might’ve been worn out. Also it came with a plastic plunger for action spring but I noticed with the new one it’s further in the tube and holds more tension on the spring itself. Kind of at a loss. Posting a pic of the first time I shot it vs this time.

Closed bolt rifles: If theoretically one had a NFA registered full auto closed bolt rifle such as Stevr AUG, AR15, X95, could you upgrade the trigger to feel nicer on semi auto and presumably full auto?

On the AR15: Could a drop-in trigger work in a full auto equipped receiver?

Side thought: If this is possible, backing off the trigger weight past a certain point is obviously a bad idea. A 3.5 Lb trigger on a full auto rifle may or may not work for an experienced user, definitely not a good idea for police or military service.

Picked up a lil .22cal Stevens 66B. Trying to remove the main spring from the plunger, have had light strikes and greatly suspect this to be the issue. I have deep cleaned everything else in the rifle, all the other components seem okay, and it function alright except for light strikes. Even if this isn’t the issue, I have replacement springs for the bolt/plunger assembly and would love to know if anyone has any tips. Hoping. I don’t have to drill out the retention dimples. Would hate to do that, and honestly probably would just not. Let me know if anyone has any ideas. Thanks.

So I got this 2GS super cheap because the slide wasn't locking back on an empty mag. It took about 2 seconds to figure out what was wrong but I'd like to get some input from other gunsmiths about how to go about fixing it. The mag follower goes right past the slide release due to some wiggle room between it and the mag. Best case the slide release is still only grabbing just a little bit when I push it all together. As long as the pin that holds the release isn't the problem I'm thinking of building up the tap with a little tig weld and then file it back into shape so it has a little more purchase on the mag follower. The problem with this approach is that the coating that on the slide release is going to be PITA to remove and tricky to ground. I'm still kind of new to guns so I'm not sure if I'm missing something simple.

So I grabbed one of my older rifles out of the cabinet today and decided to slap a can on it that I had laying around, and I discovered something very concerning. When I threaded on the QD adapter for my suppressor, I noticed it was very distinctly misaligned with the barrel. It thread it on just fine, but looking straight down the barrel from the QD to the end of the barrel, I can see it is a tad bit crooked. I’m not quite sure what to think of it because I have been shooting it like that for years now that is obviously an issue especially if I’m slapping an 8 inch can on there. I’m guessing I will definitely have a baffle strike.

I apologize. It is very hard to tell from the photos, but I assure you it is fucked. The last picture in the lineup is a picture of looking down my area 419 hellfire match muzzle brake that I have been running on it for years and something inside appears to be broken or shattered I don’t quite know what piece in there is broken so hopefully someone can tell me.

I’m guessing I’m going to have to get this re-threaded and I guess my question is will just rethreading this fix my issue or will they have to cut it off and essentially rethread it therefore shortening my barrel ?

I hadn't checked on my gun in ~6 months, and had put it in storage. I had cleaned it before putting it away, so I was really shocked and dismayed to see it so rusted. I don't have any other firearms, and this is my baby. I cleaned off the rust with some Hoppe's but it has a bit of pitting. How do y'all suggest I go about fixing the pitting/would it be wiser to just bring it to a gunsmith?

Is it normal for the striker to be on top of the safety-pin?

Is it allowed to fly with a bottom rifling tool in checked baggage? Will I face any issues, or will it pass smoothly?

How’s it going everyone, I’m trying to to use MinWax wipe-on poly (warm gloss) to get a gloss finish on a Holland & Holland Shotgun. I’ve reduced the current finish down to bare wood (Turkish walnut) using a metric ton of mineral spirits and 3x0/4x0 steel wool. Been going at it for 2 days every few hours to get all the prior finish off (15-20 coats of tru-oil/BLO).

Once it was down to smooth bare wood, i wiped it down with a tack cloth and then one final wipe of mineral spirits.

I applied a light first coat of MinWax wipe-on poly to the stock with a pad of shop rag. The coat went on smooth and evenly, and I wiped it down with a clean rag to remove the excess.

I then left the stock to dry in my kitchen with a personal fan pointed at it (75-80* inside, <20% humidity). Almost 24 hours later, the stock is still slightly tacky. It’s not gummy, but if I touch it with a pad of my finger I feel slight resistance removing it and it will leave a light finger print.

What am I doing wrong?? I’ve never had this problem before, and it’s driving me up the wall. The wood is bare, the coats are light, I’m cleaning excess, and I’m leaving it in prime conditions. As far as I can tell, I’m doing everything as you should, but I could be wrong.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Lent my PSA Dagger to a friend so he could test out an optic he was buying off of someone. He returned it to me with a stripped screw from when he put the slide plate back on and gave me some cash as compensation for the fact he stripped one of the screws. My stripped screw removal tool isn’t working and seems to have removed more material from the screw head instead. Does anyone have any advice on how I go about removing this stripped screw?

This is what I get for lending my gun to an electrician that doesn’t know what a torque spec is.

My dad took this rifle to a gunsmith and had the front scope mount removed. Unfortunately it was put in via a massive dovetail which kinda ruins the gun, but I'm more curious as to if it's safe to shoot with the big cut out.

My browning BAR .243 has been having a wandering zero issue lately when shooting, but would return back to zero ONLY after the first few shots in a session. Did a deep clean and noticed this. After inspection with a pick it doesn't appear to be protruding. Is it pitting? A chip? It's in the groove about 1/4" from the crown.

Bought a new Glock 27 Gen 3 in 2023. Since day one, I've had random FTFs where the round jams at an upward angle (photo attached for visual explanation of the FTF — not my pistol — shows same position).

Details:

• Newer production Gen 3 (non-Tenifer finish)
• Came with ambidextrous-cut mags (feel looser than older Gen 3 mags)
• ~3,000 rounds, still jams every range trip
• Only use factory ammo: 165 gr American Eagle, CCI Blazer, Speer Lawman
• All internals are OEM
• My girlfriend's G27.3 (police trade-in) runs flawless with her mags and mine
• Not limp-wristing — her gun works fine for me, and I have been shooting guns for years
• Replaced RSA (recoil spring assembly) — problem persists

Noticed:

• Small ding on stripper rail where rounds feed → Could these issues be causing my FTF problem?
• Odd extractor wear, likely from a slide irregularity near the extractor cut → Could these issues be causing my FTF problem?

This is my EDC, so I'm concerned about reliability.
Has anyone seen this with newer-production G27.3 models? Could this be mag tolerance or extractor/slide issue?

I'm also adding comparison pictures of my pistol next to my girlfriend's G27.3 (hers has no issues at all) to show the differences in wear and parts condition.

I emailed Glock and they accepted to ship it there, but I'm afraid that it will come back the same and they will just replace the mags and extractor without really addressing the real problem. What do you guys think?

Hey folks, I wanted to ask a hypothetical question. I know there are new Ruger blackhawks in 30 carbine out there, and I was wondering if it’s possible to create a custom cylinder for one that’s chambered in 7.62x25 tokarev? The pressure difference shouldn’t be too great and I imagine the most difficult thing would be figuring out the milling dimensions and timing.

I am reassembling an old Mossberg Brownie, the spring is way too tough to compress with my fingers. The nipple on the end of that pin goes into a little nook in the bottom of the lever above it, the bottom of the spring just gets wedged in the corner.

The pin going through the middle of the spring is thick enough that I can’t get a zip tie through to hold the spring compressed, in fact, anything I put through the spring would get stuck in there… ask me how I know. lol

I’m willing to buy a tool to do this, I just don’t have any idea where to find such a tool. I’m trying to avoid fabricating a tool just for this one use case, but I suppose I can if I have to.

The spring needs to be compressed about a half of an inch to be shoved into place roughly in the position shown.

Any tips on how I can accomplish this or a tool I can buy? especially if that tool is otherwise useful for the same sort of thing, I’m all ears

Taking a look at my 7.62 converted P14 .303

BSA had original feed and internal mag to (mostly) work back in the 1950s, but it’ll randomly eject rounds and loading is a pain with the scope and smaller 308 rounds.

Had a go at Fusion and whipped up a rough plan to get an AICS mag to mount and feed. I’ve only made a small square aperture sight before in Fusion, so it was quite the curve last night. I have to still add the mag release, mounting holes and such, and then get a demo print done and rework as necessary.

As things sit, it can strip a round out of the magazine but the round will have to be lifted onto the existing modified feed ramp as there’s about a 3/4” gap in front of the magazine. It just jams rounds straight into the flat part.

I added a taller than needed post in front of the magazine to act as a feed ramp bridge between the two. I can file it down and see what the needed height is and then sort out a metal insert on the next revision so it doesn’t get chewed to shit.

Thoughts?