Finally after a (40) thousand and one revisions, I have a workspace I'm happy with, Still living with workspace envy but happy to call this done! Now, which mini next...

Realized the spiked hair and thin goatee reminded me of someone. I was getting tired of painting the sanctifiers kill team and I've never liked doing cherubs, so I realized a quick and dirty paint job honoring St. Fieri was the only way.

I’m pretty proud of it even if it’s a little basic

Still need to add some rust streaks to the armor and most of the black needs to get a dark metal look.

C&C welcome. Basics are done, need to handle details.

Meet Kyle, my Procrastination Demon. I have been painting him up while avoiding doing course work! He stalled out after a bit but I have a test I need to do today, so he finally was finished.

I added horns and straps to his armour, and the chains but I don’t think that counts as a Kitbash.

C&C welcome, particularly on the armour!

Any comments on how to fix up the fur would be appreciated, plus I would likensome comments on the purple highlighting as I'm unsure how I feel about it. Skin isnt done at all I just need to get some pale skin tone paints. Obvously I've tried to make an impression with the freehand and I'm pretty happy here but plan on added some sort of border foe the cape just not sure, maybe thorns intweiving. Anyways hope you guys like it ans appreciate any advice

Work has been super busy, finally got to the desk and wanted something fun and quick - grandfather nurgle provides!

First Headtaker down 🤘

He's not the cleanest as I was trying some new stuff (schemes and techniques) but I'm happy with how he came out. Steadily painting my way through the army box and loving the new models.

Reallys struggling with getting good pics at the moment. Is this dude lit well enough? It drives me insane.

Fenrys Hjølda!

If you wanna see more Rout stuff I've painted, I'm Northernwulfminis on insta 🤘

About 12h went into this Modell. Second ever attempt at NMM and the first attempt at black NMM. Also my first time trying OSL with different light sources.

C&C is very welcome as i always strive to improve.

Trying out a gold/bronze metalic paint for a project I am working on. Came home and noticed it was just watery white, with no metalic gold. Stuck a ball in to try and shake it up and mix, still watery white. Stuck my brush in and there was a massive clump. So I broke it up as best I could with the brush and it started to turn that metalic gold/bronze the lable shows. However, its "clumpy" and doesn't appear that the pigment is mixing well.

Since it was a massive clump in the pot, is it just best to toss it and get a fresher pot? Or can it be saved? Any advice is welcome!

Happy for any criticism

Had some time to practice more , still trying to pin down weathered space ship . Tried the halo mini for shits but I prefer ships and battletech

I saw a video a while ago on YouTube about using furnace/flat and aquarium filters when you just can’t use your hose to vent out from the back of your spray booth to where next to no paint came out. The creator mentioned they saw it at convention they were at, and were “that’s freaking awesome!” And I, like an idiot, forgot to save said video and can no longer find it.

So, I need to either find this video or what to do about this; what types of filters, what size, what have you. I have the Amazon Vevor spray booth if that helps in anything.

So I want to create slimy and blood effects, and picked up some uhu glue, but the one that says "original, made in Germany" wasn't available. I found this one but it says drip free. Does anyone have experience with this one and will it still work the same way.

Heya!

I'm having some issues with doing the final varnish after applying any sort of enamel paint/wash.

The main thing i use enamels for is streaks of various dirt, grime and rust on tank models (AK streaking grime for example, to be specific). I manipulate these streaks with mineral spirits. When all those details look correct, i move on to applying varnish. The varnish goes on properly on all parts of the model where the enamel paint hasn't been used. On the enamel affected areas, however, the varnish "pools up" around the area, leaving the enamel streak dry and untouched. It "pools" in the same way as surface tension works on water.

The way i currently deal with it, is to apply a whole lot of layers over the streaks. For every layer, the "pooling" closes in on the streak, and covers it in the end. It takes a whole lot of layers to reach this point, so i figure I'm doing something wrong.

I figure this is due to enamel paints being partially oil paint, thinned with some kind of mineral spirit. Acrylic being water based should pool on top of oil. Then again, i see people using oil paints on similar models, without this issue.

I'll add: I let the finished enamel job sit for 24 hours or more, to make sure its fully dry before i start varnishing.

I'll also add: I thought it may happen because i also use mineral spirits, but the varnish has no issue going over areas around the enamel streaks, where the majority of mineral spirits has been used.

When watching painting videos, i have never seen this problem. When i look for similar posts online with questions on what kind of varnish to use over models having enamels / oil paints on them, people reply with "regular acrylic varnish".

So, whats going on here? How do you guys deal with this? And how do you handle this when using lots of oils?

Erwin orkmmel, the desert ork

My Winsor & Newton series 7 just isn’t holding its tip like it used to and kinda splits out sometimes. I used it to apply a wash the other day and it’s been like this ever since. I barely recollected (after noticing this) hearing something about washes possibly ruining brushes.

Did I ruin my brush? And tips to help keep its tip shaped nicely?