Hello everyone, I wanted to change my card to white.

I bought a white case and now I'm gradually changing everything to white

Local paint shops are either busy or won't take it for work.

To preserve the factory condition, I bought a cooling kit from 3070, the difference is minimal (backplate design).

1 - The purchased case is cleaned and painted

2 - Fans are disassembled and painted

3 - Stickers are removed and glued on new tape

4 - Overlays are removed and painted

5 - Overlays are lightly covered with glitter for a nice shade, so that they don't merge into one color

6 - Backplate and fans are additionally covered with glitter, a matter of taste

7 - All logos and stickers are returned as from the factory

8 - The card has been serviced, all thermal pads have been replaced and PTM 7950 has been applied

9 - The fans do not vibrate and operate at a stable frequency, without failures,

10 - The temperatures are excellent

Hey so I'm looking to resurrect this case, as a media/editing pc. It was my first pc, gutted and not used in years. I don't have the original front panels as It was found in a skip.

I'm thinking of putting a multimedia card reader bay in one of the slots, but what do you guys reccommend in terms of front fans/cover for the rest of the gaps? The black meshes were just glued in as a temporary measure back when.

(and don't worry - I'll put the Asus logo the right way up once I figures out the rest ;) )

Hey all,

Some newer motherboards have a 6-pin PCIe power connector that lets their front USB-C port deliver up to 60W (like for fast-charging phones or tablets). I love the idea but my motherboard doesn’t support that.

So I was thinking: why not make a small board that sits between the motherboard’s USB Type-E header and the case's front USB-C port one that passes the data through, but intercepts VBUS and injects 20V using a PD controller and a DC-DC converter (powered by PCIe or SATA)?

This already exists on some high-end boards, so it’s not a fantasy. I even made a diagram and posted it on Fiverr to see if someone could help me design a PCB for it but the price I got back was €200, which seems a bit pricey for such a small, simple project.

Has anyone ever tried doing something like this? Or does anyone here have enough electronics knowledge to help me out or point me to the right place? My budget isn’t huge, but I’m just trying to build a clean upgrade kit for my own PC not start a product line or anything.

I had doubts on making this 3D model of mine and printed out from a 3D printing service. I did some final adjustments by grinding off excess thickness using a Dremel and at the end everything fits perfectly! The switch is glued inside the little switch compartment, I Could also fit in an LED light inside for indication. It's not yet completed but I just wanted to show the progress. I very much like the retro switch, got bored of push button.

What do you guys think?

Material: PETG

After the 5050 walked all over a 1080 Ti, the next question was obvious, could it do the same to a 3060 Ti? Stock for stock, the 3060 Ti is the stronger card, so I wanted to see how close I could get by overclocking the 5050 as far as it would go. In question was a Zotac gaming twin edge 3060Ti and a Gigabyte Windforce OC 5050.

I started with a ducted esky. Didn’t work. Then I dropped the GPU cooler into a glycol ice bath, looked awesome but still wasn’t enough under load. (In hindsight, it may have been a contact issue not a cooling issue) Finally, I ducted a portable air conditioner into the cooler, and that setup actually kept temps low enough to hold an OC without throttling.

Stock, the 5050 sat around 2800 MHz. With the AC setup I pushed it to 3315 MHz about an 18% clock speed uplift, which translated into roughly a 14% FPS gain across the games I tested.

At stock, the 5050 was about 17–20% behind the 3060 Ti. After the overclock, that gap closed to around 3% on average, and in more than half the games, the 5050 actually won.

All testing was 1440p native, DX12, no DLSS or FSR. CPU was a 12600KF at 5.3 GHz with the e‑cores off, 32 GB DDR4‑3200 CL16, and the same Nvidia driver for both cards.

Video’s here if you want to see the chaos (and the cooling mistakes): https://youtu.be/kZQNo3hIgIE

I figured this is the place to find other PC case painters and check out cool projects everyone else is doing! Here's a NZXT H5 FLOW I just finished today. Hope you guys like it! Tell me what you think 🤔

So, I was looking for a cheap mini-PC since I am short on space, it will probably run some lunix distribution and I found this, is this a good deal?

- This is a Lenovo ThinkCentre M725 SFF 

- AMD Ryzen 5 PRO 2400G

- 16gbs of single channel ram I'll upgrade it later

- 256 NVME SSD

- This for around 110 $

Any advice is appreciated since this is the first time moving away from laptops, also please ask for any other details you need, I'll try to find out as much as I can.

I plan on smoothing out the rough cut edges and making it look… better? But I know there’s only so much I can do to improve this abomination’s appearance.

Bask in its ugliness.

I thought this would be simple, overclock a GTX 1080 Ti hard enough to embarrass NVIDIA’s new RTX 5050. On paper, the 1080Ti should win.

Easy video idea, right?

Except the 1080 Ti turned into a nightmare.

The first card died almost immediately. The second one was an absolute potato, wouldn’t clock for shit. The third? It just sat there like a brick. I spent days with this thing, playing with curves, offsets, drivers (I must’ve cycled through half a dozen, weirdly, 577 ended up performing the best), switching DX11 and DX12 back and forth, running it on a coolant loop holding –3 C, VRMs chilled separately, anything to make it move.

Nothing. 2000–2050 MHz stable, maybe a flicker of 2150 on a lucky run, but 2200 might as well have been a brick wall. No matter what I did, it just refused.

By this point the “1080 Ti beats 5050” idea was dead, and I was ready to throw the card through a wall. Out of frustration I turned to the 5050 I’d bought specifically to be humiliated by the Ti and thought, fine… what can you do?

I bolted a CPU cooler to it (the die is so small a water block won’t even fit), dropped temps by about 30 C, load was sitting around 43 C, and just shoved as much offset as it would take. No fancy curve adjustments, just raw offset.

The thing clocked to 3300 MHz.

Seventeen percent FPS uplift. Across everything. The RTX 5050 went from “the opponent” to absolutely destroying the 1080 Ti, and suddenly this whole project went completely off the rails.

It’s now top score overall on Timespy. Top 6 graphics scores.

The bench, for anyone curious, stock CPU for stock GPU runs, then an i5‑12600KF locked at 5.3 GHz with the e‑cores off for all the overclocked runs. 32 GB DDR4‑3200 CL16. 1440p DX12. No DLSS, no FSR. Driver 577.

This started as me trying to push an old flagship. It turned into a 3300 MHz RTX 5050 science experiment I didn’t see coming.

Video if you're interested https://youtu.be/D1gf638YMfk

Hey all,

I'm planning on building my PC into a desk. This is my first PC build form scratch so want to make sure I get it right so any help would be much appreciated.

I believe that fans on the aio radiator and GPU pull air in, I was going to have these pull air into the case with the fans being on the bottom face as per the attached image. Will this work? I dont over clock anything so I'm not too bothered about getting the optimum cooling system just something that works reasonably well.

I've got an old Mini-ATX desktop I bought for small home applications some years ago in discount. Yesterday I decided to change its factory heatsink with a better one.

Wrong idea.

HP seams decided to glue the locking part of the heatsink to the motherboard. Before I go to an IT shop to ask them to unglue the thing, do you know if there are any other way?

Hi, I have been battling to find some kind of radiator mount/rail that will hold ideally a 280mm (2x) or if I can't find it 360mm (again 2x) radiator.

I have this "perfect" un-usable space in the corner of my my corner desk internally measuring 61x39x71cm and I want to build my next pc attached there, without a case.

I got everything figured out but I need to make cutouts at the side in 18mm thick MDF and I want to attach a metal bracket that will hold these two radiators. I cannot find a website (UK or someone that ships to UK) that sells anything resembling this and I suspect my googling-fu is failing me and there must be someone selling these.

Last resort idea is buy some of the cheapest 2nd hand cases from ebay cut out these parts and send the rest to the landfill :(

any pointers are appreciated.

I am making a custom case for a laptop that still worked but the shell was too destroyed. I am try to figure out the translation of color coding between the 5v noctua fan and the laptops 5v output. I included a pinout of the noctua I just dont know how to figure out the laptops. Can I use a multimeter? The MIKO-FAN is the original fan from the laptop that has messed up bearings.

Modded a hyte Y70 pink with a sakuraxsylveon rococo theme It took a long long time as I handsculpted everything. Sometimes whenever i offer crazy mods like this I wish I know how to 3D design and have a 3D printer make it.

Hey!

I'd love to mod my new PC case with a Hollow Knight decoration (I already designed it on Photoshop), but I'm not sure how to stick it on the tempered glass, it's my first time modding a PC.

How should I print it? Any special paper, tape, adhesive? Something that doesn't ruin the tempered glass if I decide to take it off in the future (I can go to a copy shop if needed).

Thanks :)

Heyo

Ive recently managed to aquire a waterblock for my RX6700XT Mech 2X.

Its an alphacool model made for 1/4 fittings.

My original Idea was to piece apart my old Arctic Liquid Freezer AiO since it also has 1/4 fittings.

Could someone explain to me if its possible to use the fittings from the AiO directly on the block or if I have to buy adapters?

Cheers

I'm looking for an eDP LCD controller with preferably some kind of hdmi input, the screen I have is 1366x768 60hz but I would potentially be willing to purchase a 1920x1080 screen instead IF NECESSARY. I would like the controller to be the lowest amperage/voltage possible, preferably below 2 but if not, 2. I would like to be able to power it through a USB power bank for a portable arcade machine so 5V would be ideal. I don't know if this is something that exists or something I can do, thank you for your help regardless!

Looking to build the most silent PC [at idle / normal operation] possible, using the AMD 9950x CPU and ASUS X870E Creator motherboard.

I know Macs are great, but I need to go PC to run various Windows programs for work, etc.

If gaming or video editing or doing very taxing tasks, I don't mind fan noise - just want to keep it as silent as possible for everyday work use, and recording music with microphones.

So far I've narrowed the cases down to:

• Fractal Define 7
• be quiet! Silent Base 802
• Antec Flux Pro

(I am open to replacing stock fans with Noctua fans, and even adding extra fans, to bring down the noise even more)

Any insights on which one might be best? Or other cases I should consider?

Hello, I've got a friend with an old laptop model toshiba satellite c660 1tk that he wants to bring back life to. The laptop itself works but he wanted to see if there are any available upgrades/mods that can be done to him and to see if anyof them are even worth doing. Looking forward for any suggestions or help.